Category Archives: Blog

Look for the Sabine River book in early 2014

Texas A&M University Press is set to publish my book in early 2014! Here’s a draft of the book jacket text:

The Sabine River by photographer Danea Males.

Ask Texans about their favorite rivers and most will mention the Colorado, the Rio Grande, the Guadalupe, or perhaps the Brazos. These hold special meaning in the lives of those who inhabit their banks, paddle their waters, or ply the lakes compounded in their runs. But the Sabine River is different.

Flowing on the eastern boundary of the state, where it is hard to see whereTexas ends and Louisiana begins, the Sabine holds the mystery and roughness of territory not claimed by river outfitters, visited by weekend kayakers, or profiled in travel magazines. If the Rio Grande is a river out of Lonesome Dove, the Sabine is a river out of Deliverance.

Growing up near the Sabine, journalist Wes Ferguson, like most East Texans, steered clear of its murky, debris-filled waters, where alligators lived in the backwater sloughs and an occasional body was pulled from some out-of-the-way crossing. The Sabine held a reputation as a haunt for a handful of hunters and loggers, more than a few water moccasins, swarms of mosquitoes, and the occasional black bear lumbering through swamp oak and cypress knees.

But when Ferguson set out to do a series of newspaper stories on the upper portion of the river, he and photographer Jacob Croft Botter were entranced by the river’s subtle beauty and the solitude they found there. They came to admire the self-described “river rats” who hunted, fished, and swapped stories along the muddy water—plain folk who love the Sabine as much as Hill Country vacationers love the clear waters of the Guadalupe. Determined to travel the rest of the river, Ferguson and Botter loaded their gear and launched into the stretch of river that charts the line between the states and ends at the Gulf of Mexico.

The Lost Sabine: A Journey on the Edge of Texas (working title) invites readers to join Ferguson and Botter for an adventure on the Sabine, “a brown run of water” that winds a twisting path through the places “where Texas blends into the forests and swamps of Louisiana.”

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Why San Marcos loved Rob Robinson

A photo of popular tobacco shopkeeper Rob Robinson is on display at the Hill Country Humidor, which his family and friends are trying to continue operating in his tradition following his death earlier this year. Photo by Jamie Maldonado

When he died in the spring, at age 59, the body of downtown shopkeeper Rob Robinson was transported to a laboratory in Lockhart so a medical examiner could determine his cause of death.

The physician observed Robinson’s bushy eyebrows, the bushier mustache, and his mountain man-style beard, a gray tangle of facial hair that would have been familiar to any customer of the Hill Country Humidor. Robinson had been selling tobacco and swapping stories there for more than a quarter century.

The medical examiner measured Robinson’s beard, because that’s what medical examiners do. It was 10 inches long. She sized up his hair — 28 inches — and noted the six colored bands that held his ponytail in place. She also noticed his white Kinky Friedman campaign T-shirt and the message scrawled on it in red ink.

“Rob — See you in Hell!” the note read. It was signed, “Kinky.”

Click to read the rest of the story.

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And now a round of applause for the egocentric magazine editor

I’m very proud to say our first edition of Bobcat Magazine has been distributed all around San Marcos, Texas. I wrote and designed a majority of the content. Check it out:

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The ghost hunters

“Are you troubled by strange noises in the middle of the night?
“Do you experience feelings of dread in your basement or attic?
“Have you or your family ever seen a spook, specter or ghost?
“If the answer is ‘yes,’ then don’t wait another minute. Pick up the phone and call the professionals …”

- “Ghostbusters”

There will be tears tonight. There will be voices in the cemetery — a child’s laughter, a whispered threat.

On a cool, damp night in Longview, paranormal investigator Misty Richardson says she will not fear the spirits whom she will encounter during research of a local burial ground.

Above & Beyond Paranormal investigators

Above & Beyond Paranormal investigators. Photo by Kevin Green

“Me, what I believe is that I have the Lord with me,” she says. “We say a prayer and feel that He protects us. Some of them do try to possess you, so you have to do it with a clear head. If you act relaxed and peaceful, you don’t have anything to worry about.”

If you give in to panic, on the other hand, you become vulnerable. You must not panic.

Otherwise, “something can actually attach to you, and you can take it home,” she says. “It’s very, very rare, but it has happened.”

Richardson knows. She’s one of a handful of local investigators who form Above & Beyond Paranormal, a research team that is registered and open for business in Gregg County.

“We’re here to prove there is life after death here,” Richardson said. “Basically, we ghost hunt. Anybody that allows us to either go in their homes or cemeteries, we’ll go in overnight. We’ll investigate by pictures, videos, voice recordings. It’s actually pretty neat.”

They ain’t afraid of no ghosts. But tonight that’s about to change. Continue reading

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Constable selling a local legend

constable kohler's car

Constable James Kohler climbs out of his 1978 Plymouth Salon after a spin around the block.

For sale: a 1978 Plymouth Salon. Avocado-green paint. Not appropriate for all drivers – especially no teenagers. “I don’t want to get ’em killed,” says the car’s owner, Hays County Constable James Kohler.

Click here to read the story on the Hays Free Press website.

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A night in camp

Terry at his camp. Photo by Kevin Green.

Terry at his camp. Photo by Kevin Green.

Two figures darted through rush-hour traffic in the drizzle of a rainy April evening in Longview. With unwashed T-shirts clinging to their backs, they flagged down wary drivers who were attempting to exit a grocery store parking lot, not far from downtown.

“Hey, can you spare a couple bucks?” they asked. “We’re trying to get a bite to eat.”

A few people rolled down their windows and handed over change. Others did not. “All they can say is yes or no,” said Shane Wendell, one of the panhandlers. “If they say no, I don’t hold it against them. But we don’t usually do this because we usually work.”

They had not worked on that day, a Monday. During the weekend, Wendell and his friend, Terry Pate, had lived off their earnings from a roofing job. The money had run out by that afternoon, washed away by pitchers of beer at a local tavern.

So they walked across the street to the grocery store, and they begged. Continue reading

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The ballad of Billy Ray

Whatever happened to Billy Ray Johnson? He used to be a familiar face around town: the middle-aged and mentally challenged black man who was always walking the back roads of Linden.

Morris Dees and Billy Ray Johnson

Morris Dees and Billy Ray Johnson

On a September night in 2003, he was picked up and driven to a pasture party where four young white men gave him beer and told him to dance. They laughed and called him a nigger. Then one of them beat Billy Ray into unconsciousness. Afterward, his body was dumped on the side of a country road.

Johnson nearly died.

The collective shoulder shrug of Linden’s residents drew national outrage. “Old South racism lives in Texas town,” read one headline in the Chicago Tribune.

Continue reading

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Anything goes in backyard wrestling

Heavy metal is pounding, and the people are ready for rasslin’ when a man in a black mask cuts the music and grabs the microphone.

“Let me explain the rules,” he says.

Rules? There are no rules.

Drew slams somebody with a chair. Photo by Les Hassell.

Drew slams somebody with a chair. Photo by Les Hassell.

Around 50 people have gathered in a backyard in East Texas. The man in black and his competitors will battle in a professional wrestling ring. They’ll batter each other with folding chairs, cookie sheets, a thumbtack-studded baseball bat, barbed wire and other weapons. The bloodier, the better.

“Whoever’s the last three standing will meet in a head-to-head, fatal three-way for the title,” the man with the mic yells to the crowd.

He runs to the wrestling ring and dives onto the mat. He slides on his belly and leaps to his feet, waves his hands in the air and rouses the fans to stand up from their lawn chairs and pickup tailgates.

“Are — you — ready!” Continue reading

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Unicycle football is hell on wheel

Dane "Toilet Face" Walter strains for the goal line.

This is a classic underdog story.

A scrappy football team. No talent, all heart. Fighting for a chance at the playoffs.

The competition? Only the most skillful team in the league. A squad so overconfident, its captain says things like this:

“We never really practice. We just have game adaptability.”

The underdogs, well, they do practice. They showed up an hour before anyone else to run drills and draw up a few plays. Here’s one of them:

The quarterback lines up in the shotgun position. He’s riding a unicycle, because this is the Unicycle Football League in San Marcos. In this league, every player rides a unicycle — passes on a unicycle, catches on a unicycle, plays defense on a unicycle.

The quarterback flaps his arms like a bird. He squawks like a bird, too.“Ka-caw! Ka-CAW!”

On cue, the wide receiver goes in motion, pedaling down the line of scrimmage. The ball is snapped. The receiver, Jeff “Big Bird” Hogan, darts toward the end zone.

Quarterback Daniel “Air Dan” McCarthy lofts a spiral into the receiver’s waiting arms. Big Bird rolls in — literally, he rolls in — for the touchdown.

With plays like these, who knows? Continue reading

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Sassman’s last stand

A confrontation between neighbors. Criminal charges and disappearing evidence. A road project in Uhland is the latest fuel for this small-town feud.

Gordon Sassman

Gordon Sassman stands above a drainage ditch that diverts water onto his ranch.

Gordon Sassman’s heart was racing. His hands were shaking. He was so wound up, he hadn’t gotten an ounce of sleep in nearly a week.

This was a bad sign. Only a month before, Sassman had nearly died. The heart attack had hit him like a backhoe pressing down on his chest. He’d spent 10 days in the hospital.

Now Sassman, 61, was back home in Uhland, where he’s an alderman on the city council. He was supposed to be recuperating, but his many responsibilities kept interfering with the recovery.

“My heart is so stressed out,” he said. “I don’t need all this extra stress, but I’ve been kind of a main person here in town, overseeing all these different things.”

His latest source of stress? The controversy keeping him awake at night?

Seeliger Drive. A gravel road.

It had been a good road, he said, before the city hired a street crew to dig it all up. Cost the taxpayers of Uhland nearly $2,000.

Sassman, a month removed from his heart attack, could feel the blood boiling in his veins. Continue reading

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For grandma raising 13, this is ‘the worst time’

yolanda sanchez perez family

Yolanda Sanchez Perez prepares dinner for her grandchildren.

Yolanda Sanchez Perez, a hardworking grandma, lives with 13 of her grandkids on a muddy piece of land outside of town.

The only bathtub on the property is in a worn-down travel trailer in the backyard. The trailer has no running water. When it’s time to bathe, the family hauls it in five-gallon buckets.

The older boys sleep there in the trailer. They’ve barricaded the door so that it won’t flap open in the wind. The older girls share twin beds or sleep on the floor in a portable office building, which has been converted into the main living space. That’s where the kitchen and toilet are. Perez, 49, sleeps with the little ones in a shed around back, as long as the weather cooperates.

“I can’t stay here now because it’s too cold,” she says. “We have had good times in our lives, but now is the worst time.” Continue reading

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No more changes for Rebel mascot

The mustachioed mascot at Hays High School looks like he’s hopping mad.

col jack hays rebel mascot

Illustration by Hays Free Press

If so, he’s got his reasons. First, “Colonel Jack” lost his belt buckle bearing the Stars and Bars. Then the carpetbaggers commandeered his pistols, replacing
them with a couple of harmless flags.

At least no one’s tried to strip him of his uniform. Might there be a pair of long johns beneath those Confederate grays? Continue reading

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Auctioning off the past

On Saturday morning Dale Wheelis raised the bay door of a storage unit whose renters had fallen hopelessly behind on their payments.

at the storage auction

High-bidder Teri Koch finds a stash of old records in the storage unit. Also, behold the dark-eyed, moon-faced woman. Photo by me.

Till that moment, the contents of the unit had been open to nothing but speculation. Now more than 30 people gathered around for their first glimpse inside.

“Everybody get a look,” Wheelis said.

The people appraised the boxes, appliances and piles of junk, looking for signs of treasure buried among the clutter.

“There’s a TV,” said a man in the crowd, Louis Froelick of Kyle. “Washer and dryer. TV back there.”

Wheelis, the gray-haired manager of Tom Thumb Mini Storage in San Marcos, opened the round of bidding. “Do I hear $5?” he said. “I got 5. Do I hear $10? I got 10.”

Perched on a barstool in the storage unit behind Wheelis was a large, unframed portrait of a woman with bouffant locks. She wore a half smile and dark eyes set in a moon-shaped face. Some kind of feathery purple fabric was draped across her shoulders. A senior portrait, perhaps, or a glamor shot taken by a mall photographer.

“Two hundred once?” Wheelis asked. “Two-oh-five. Do I hear 210?”

The woman in the picture seemed to be smiling upon the bidders. Continue reading

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At movie premiere, San Marcos smells the popcorn

A Friday night movie premiere in San Marcos, and the stars would be arriving at any minute. Gaggles of fans had positioned themselves along the red carpet, contending for the best views.

Campus Radio actress

Lauren Walsh plays the love interest in the movie "Campus Radio."

It was a long red carpet, the kind you see on TV or in magazines. It began where the ticket collector stood and ran through the lobby of the Starplex Cinema in San Marcos, shooting beneath the double doors, right on out to the curb, where many people were waiting in the cold.

One shivering teenager was Jason Torres. Jason, who is 16, had heard about the debut film “Campus Radio” when the film’s director spoke to Jason’s class at San Marcos High School.

“I said, ‘You know what, I’m gonna go see that film,’” Torres said. “It took place in Austin and San Marcos, so I’m gonna go see it.”

To escape the cold, the less dedicated fans waited inside the theater. They milled around, rubbing shoulders with teenagers and earnest college journalists who gripped digital voice recorders. One middle-aged man stood alone with a bucket of popcorn, stray kernels gathering around his feet.

You could feel the anticipation in the air. You could smell the popcorn.

Then cameras started flashing. Fans rushed forward, pressing against the velvet ropes that kept them from stepping on the carpet. The stars were here.

Read the rest of the story at the San Marcos Mercury.

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Four days on the Sabine River

From our first trip down the Sabine River a couple of years ago … These videos were edited by Scott Brunner. I found them on his storage drive and stole them fair and square.

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Chris Davis: ‘I’ve fixed what I needed to fix’

OKLAHOMA CITY, Okla. — Chris Davis saunters into the home team dugout a couple of hours before the first pitch. No need for introductions. The pride of Longview, Davis is tall and muscled up, with blue eyes, gelled hair and Texas Rangers flip-flops.

chris davis

Chris Davis of the Texas Rangers.

He’s sipping a Rockstar energy drink. He grins like he knows you and raps his fist against his chest, then raises one finger to the heavens. He winks.

The rock star act is probably a joke, but it’s a telling display of confidence from the 23-year-old ball player. Davis has weathered the first season of frustration and disappointment in his young career. Following a demotion to the minor leagues a month and a half ago, he has emerged as driven and sure of himself as ever.

He has found his swing, and he’s found his swagger. “I’m having a lot more fun than I was two or three months ago,” Davis says. “Those were awful days.”

No, seriously.

“It was bad. I know it was bad.” Continue reading

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Cow College

Cow College

Photo by Jacob Croft Botter

The old ways just won’t cut it in a modern beef operation, according to professors at Texas A&M University.

That can be a hard message to swallow for some Texans who yearn to work with cattle. Maybe retirement age is approaching and they remember the way life used to be, before they walked off the family farm to take a job in town. Or maybe they’ve heard a few too many yarns about cattle drives and rodeos, wide-open ranches and cowboys sitting tall in the saddle.

Some folks expect to throw a few heifers onto the home place and watch them pay for themselves. Other people are looking for an agricultural write-off on their tax bill.

For whatever reason, droves of Texans get into the cattle business every year. And for those would-be ranchers, Texas A&M is there to help, offering the Texas AgriLife Pasture and Livestock Management Workshop. The course is held each spring at the Texas AgriLife Research and Extension Center in Overton, east of Tyler.

If the Aggies crush a few romantic notions along the way, well, better to hear it from them first.

Continue reading at Texas Co-op Power Magazine

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Selling roses to Longview’s drunks

The rose lady, Pam Johnson

If a man and woman are out on the town — they’re two-stepping, they’re having fun — one thing is all but certain: before night’s end, the rose lady will find them.

And when she does, the man better have $3 in hand. It’s a small price to pay for a husband or boyfriend or even a first date who wants to stay in the good graces of his woman.

The rose lady drives from club to club in Longview and Kilgore. On a mission, she hurries through the front door and scans the crowd for her prey. She darts among them, proffering a bouquet of deep red and other brightly hued roses. Many people say no, but plenty say yes.

She’s sold more than enough flowers to keep her in business for the past 20 years.

“Would you like to buy a rose?” Continue reading

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Unleashed dogs not bicyclist’s best friend

My delicious, meaty shank

My latest scheme to not get any fatter is to ride a bike. Dogs think this is a terrible idea.

Normally I wouldn’t give two rips about the opinion of some mangy cur, but I live out in the country — in official parlance, an unincorporated area of western Gregg County — where dogs rule the road. They’re no fans of pedestrians, and they really hate guys on bikes.

Case in point: Maybe three minutes into my ride the other day, a pit bull terrier raced into the street, and he sank his teeth into my delicious, meaty shank.

The wound was deep. The blood was flowing. I threw down my kickstand, stormed through the owner’s yard and rang his doorbell.

Read more: http://www.news-journal.com/oped/forum/article_e53547a5-afcc-53e3-acc0-1ea795744d4b.html

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Comfort food and mounted critters

From the June edition of County Line Magazine

Some things just go together: Burgers and fries, bacon and eggs, comfort food and mounted critters.

It beckons.

A Gladewater greasy spoon has discovered the winning combination. The Silver Spur Cafe on U.S. 80 serves diner fare in the presence of wild things … lots and lots of wild things.

On a Thursday morning, the black bear was situated to pounce on an old man in a cowboy hat. A coyote’s tail dangled above another man’s head. Along the restaurant’s walls were a beaver and otter, raccoon and porcupine, more than a few squirrels and flocks of birds. Continue reading

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Old rides, new life

BETTIE — Edsel Green parked his tractor beside the only traffic light in town and polished his beauty for the ride to come.

Edsel Green nurses a cold beer on the back seat of his tractor.

Edsel Green nurses a cold beer on the back seat of his tractor. Photo by Kevin Green (no relation)

Rebuilt from hood to hitch, every bearing and seal, the red International was not pulling a disk plow or baler. Instead, Green’s haul on that autumn day was an old bench seat from a GMC van.

He had welded the seat, still covered in factory blue cloth, to a homemade mount that he raised and lowered with a hydraulic hitch. It felt pretty sturdy.

“We’re fixing to go look at the leaves change colors,” he said.

Green, 61, had dressed for the day in creased overalls and a camouflage baseball cap. Tall and burly, and a little stooped by age, the Bettie native restores antique tractors for a living. He had taken off work on a weekday in November to lead a few buddies in a country caravan through Bettie, Ewell and other Upshur County communities that don’t appear on a lot of maps.

“We’re diehards,” Green said. “We’ll ride till dark.”

From Green’s workshop beside the blinking light on U.S. Highway 271, the three tractors headed northeast on Bluebonnet Road. They rumbled down the cracked blacktop, stirring up leaves of crimson and gold, past green pastures and young hardwoods.

“It was all farmland out here at one time,” Green said. “This here 100 acres was all in a cotton patch when I was a little bitty boy.” Continue reading

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A home-grown Thanksgiving turkey

The domesticated turkey has only one obligation in this life, but it’s a big one, and there’s no getting around it. The bird in my backyard had to die, and it was my job to off her.

Like a lot of people, I had been swept away by the back-to-the-land craze. (In my case, “the land” was a fenced lawn in Liberty City). And like a lot of people, I had fallen into a trap that snags many a would-be, one-man slaughterhouse: I had gotten attached. Continue reading

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‘I probably would have died with them’

Two sisters-in-law slipped into ponchos on Wednesday morning and waded through the ashes of a small frame home in Kilgore.

Sherry Ritchie, left and Joanie Cummings relatives of two children who was killed in a house fire in Kilgore TX, on Tuesday morning , look over remains of the fire.

Sherry Ritchie, left, and Joanie Cummings inside the burned house. Photo by Ricardo B. Brazziell

As they worked toward the back bedroom, Sherry Ritchie and Joanie Cummings filled trash bags with smoke-stained clothes they believed could be salvaged. But mostly they filled bags with debris that was burnt, or melted, and ruined.

“A lot of stuff is gone,” said Ritchie. “It’s just a pile of ashes.”

Ritchie and Cummings took frequent breaks, because the smoke that hung in the air made it difficult to breathe. Ritchie tied grocery bags over her shoes and wore a shower cap to protect her hair.

By midafternoon, the sisters-in-law had finished their task, and they rested on the front porch of the home on Williams Street. Surrounded by more than a dozen overstuffed trash bags, they talked about the fire that had taken the lives of their great-nephew and great-niece the previous morning. Continue reading

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Can Longview’s race “monster” be solved?

In midst of LISD attendance zone debate, race relations still riddle

A black boy’s education was not worth much in Longview in the 1950s, but the segregated schoolhouse did offer a cheap supply of ready labor.

“They’d come get us out of class,” recalls Al Jones, a 67-year-old Longview resident who attended all-black East Ward Elementary School. Continue reading

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Emu on the run

A wayward emu is on the loose in Harrison County after spooking a rancher’s livestock for two weeks. Brad Martin said his son and nephew were heading to the family fishing hole on a summer afternoon when they spotted the unwelcome guest.

“They came running up to the house, yelling, ‘Daddy, there’s a prehistoric animal at the pond!’ ” Martin said. Continue reading

Posted in Outdoors | 2 Comments

On the road with Wes and Scott

Last summer Scotty and I got paid to drive around East Texas … These are the videos from our six day trips.

Listen to my interview on Shreveport’s NPR station:

All Things Considered / Red River Radio Get Adobe Flash player

If the player doesn’t work, click here to load the Mp3.

… Yes, I used the word flabbergasted. Many thanks to my nameless web colleague!

Canton:

Nacogdoches:

Caddo Lake:

Zipline:

Gators and Friends:

Gilmer:

On Caddo Lake

We could have watched TV. We could have gone to Walmart. Instead, my buddy Scott and I decided to spend a few days exploring East Texas, its attractions and oddities.

Best of all? Our employer, the Longview News-Journal, was footing the bill. Continue reading

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Cicada song

Tiny nymphs hide among the trees of East Texas.

For years, they lead quiet, uneventful infant lives, content to drink the sap of tree roots as they burrow deeper and deeper into the soil.

But as they grow older, the midsummer night beckons. Continue reading

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Let’s commercialize high school sports

Pat Collins is a salty old coach, a booster backslapper, a guy whose powers of persuasion can open wallets around town.

He wants the best for his kids, and he knows how to get it. For proof, just look at the fancy scoreboards at Longview High School. Continue reading

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‘He’s given hero a different meaning’

LAKEPORT — Hundreds of East Texans stood in silent tribute Saturday as a Tatum family grieved over the flag-draped casket of a fallen loved one.

Family members of Alejandro Granado meet his casket at the East Texas Regional Airport.

Family members of Alejandro Granado meet his casket at the East Texas Regional Airport.

Relatives and supporters gathered at the East Texas Regional Airport to meet the body of Alejandro “Alex” Granado III, a Special Forces communications sergeant who was killed a week earlier in eastern Afghanistan. He was 42.

Granado arrived by chartered plane on a warm, clear August morning. The plane landed smoothly, and the only sound among the hundreds on hand was a mechanical hum as the cargo door lifted open. Continue reading

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Longview Transit riders as varied as the routes

John Harris. Photo by Michael Cavazos.

John Harris. Photo by Michael Cavazos.

You could write a book about the characters who ride Longview’s public bus routes.

Just ask Greg Sambrano.

Sambrano, a 52-year-old car wash employee, future college student and aspiring novelist, is 30 pages into a work of fiction based on the people he meets during excursions across town.

“I cruise around and listen to people,” Sambrano said. “I just ride the buses. It’s all I’ll do today – talk to people sometimes, but mostly just listen and observe. You ride it a few times, you’re going to see the characters.” Continue reading

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A dying man's 'holy calling'

Dencil Marsh at the East Texas Arboretum. Photo by Les Hassell.

Dencil Marsh at the East Texas Arboretum. Photo by Les Hassell.

Dencil Marsh’s wife calls him a billy goat the way he scrambles over leaf-strewn ledges and through deep, dry washes. Somehow, he said, he never loses his footing.

He wanders foot trails through scrubby forest and brush, exploring a patch of land set aside for a project he considers his “holy calling” – the transformation of 28 acres into a garden showcase and urban forest known as the Longview Arboretum and Gardens.

On a sunny afternoon in June, Marsh leaned his 73-year-old frame against a young pine tree to rest and catch his breath.

“I don’t have the strength and stamina I used to,” he said. “I used to think I was a tough little guy.” Continue reading

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Fast times with the repo man

Wesley Pierce. Photo by Kevin Green.

Wesley Pierce. Photo by Kevin Green.

Never bring a knife to a gunfight.

It’s a rule to live by, but not one that applies to Longview’s top repo man.

Wesley Pierce has been cursed, chased and shot at in the 18 years since he began combing the streets in his tow truck. He’s on the lookout for vehicles whose owners have defaulted on their loans, and though he does not pack heat, he said a gun in his face is unlikely to deter him.

“When I go out to get a car, I’m there to get the car,” he said. “I’m not saying I’m bulletproof, because I’m not, but I know more people won’t pull the trigger than will pull the trigger.”

It helps that he strikes an imposing figure. Pierce, 39, wears a gold chain and a trim goatee. He’s balding, with spiky blond hair and the hint of a mullet that tickles the back of his neck. Continue reading

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Hit-and-run

Nakia Wright was straggling behind the others, so the car hit her first. It flipped her into the air, and when she came down her head cracked the right headlight.

It struck Jermaine Washington, 20, next, gashing open his big toe. The passenger-side mirror then caught Hettie Franklin’s elbow, and in the fall, she fractured her ankle.

“I spun around and hit the doggone ditch,” said Franklin, 20. “It felt like I was doing a skip-hop.” Continue reading

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Desperate options

Philip Boepple at his home in a shotgun shack in Longview.

Philip Boepple at his home in a shotgun shack in Longview. Photo by Michael Cavazos

No air conditioning, rotting floors, sagging ceilings: This is how some Longview renters live.

The winter chill was creeping into old Sam Harris’ bones. To fight the draft, he nailed boards across the outside of his windows, and he stretched a wide, blue tarp across an exterior wall of his shotgun shack.

“Well I tell you, it’s awfully cold, and I put that up to make it warmer,” Harris said. “That wind blows hard.”

His neighbor, a welder named Mike Auston, used a different technique to seal off the elements. He lined a doorway and part of his floor with duct tape. Even so, when he pulls back the carpet, daylight peeks through the gaps between the floor and the wall. Continue reading

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Dr Pepper death grip

Larry Nelson spilled his Dr Pepper on the way home from work one afternoon.

He pulled into a parking lot in Gladewater to clean up the mess, but the bottle cap had fallen to the floorboard, rolling just out of reach. He squeezed his wide, 280-pound frame between the seat and the dash and reached for the missing cap — and realized he was stuck.

Without knowing it, Nelson had mashed the button on his car seat that adjusts the driver’s leg room. When he did, it triggered a forward motion that pinned him to the floor.

“It felt like quicksand because the more I struggled the tighter the seat got,” he said. Continue reading

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Otters among us

Wildlife biologist Charlie Muller points to a set of otter tracks.

Wildlife biologist Charlie Muller points to a set of otter tracks.

The biologist squatted beneath a busy highway bridge in White Oak and studied the creek bank for signs of life.

Hot on the trail of an elusive critter, Charlie Muller pointed to a set of paw prints that emerged from the milky green water.

“Right here’s where he came up,” he said.

River otters had been here. Continue reading

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What goes up … must come down the mountain

A Jeep claws for traction as the driver pilots it up a Barnwell Mountain trail. The 1,800-acre site that looks like a maze opened in 2000.

A Jeep claws for traction as the driver pilots it up a Barnwell Mountain trail. The 1,800-acre site that looks like a maze opened in 2000.

GILMER – Rumbling past dogwoods in full bloom on an iron-ore “mountain” high above East Texas, a trail rider mashed the brakes of his Land Rover and slid to a stop.

The trail veered hard right, dodging a pine tree. Then it vanished into thin air.

The driver parked a safe distance from the steep edge and stepped through mud to have a look around.

What he saw wasn’t pretty. Continue reading

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Forest giants weather age, development

Loblolly pine in Mount Enterprise. Photo by Les Hassell.

Loblolly pine in Mount Enterprise. Photo by Les Hassell.

Run your hand across the bark of the ancient tree. It is craggy and weathered, splotched by moss and pale green lichens.

Now look up. You’re in the presence of a giant.

Scattered throughout East Texas are a handful of trees that have escaped the logging and clearing of the past 150 years. With help from a state program that identifies and protects the biggest of the big, many of them will still be here long after their current owners are gone.

“Big trees really capture people’s imaginations,” said Pete Smith, a Texas Forest Service employee who manages the state program called Big Tree Registry.

“Especially the biggest of the big, they really dwarf us, and I think there’s some connection that people have with the biggest trees. Of course, this is Texas, so the biggest of anything is noteworthy,” Smith said. “And finding a true champion really does spark the imagination because the tree is older than us, in all likelihood, and anything that lasts longer than a human’s lifespan we memorialize in some way.” Continue reading

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Gilmer man can’t slither out of this ticket

The only good snake is a dead snake, as Ricky Huey sees it.

One Tuesday morning, Huey noticed a water moccasin crossing the Clear Creek bridge five miles outside of town, so he pulled over and got out his pellet gun. “I thought I’d sit on that creek bank in the shade for a little while and doctor me some snakes,” he said.

Huey is 45 years old and lives in Gilmer. To doctor a snake, he explained, you shoot it dead.

Huey had been doctoring snakes for around 20 minutes when an off-duty police officer saw him with his gun and called for backup. “He said he thought that little old pellet rifle was an AK-47,” Huey recalled. “He got out with his hand on the gun yelling, ‘Put the gun down!’ ” Continue reading

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New gas gold rush grips the area

“Natural gas find in Louisiana makes Jed Clampetts of property owners”

- The Los Angeles Times, Aug. 1

“A no-holds-barred, all-American gold rush for natural gas is under way in this forgotten corner of the South … Jalopies are being traded in for Cadillacs, plans for swimming pools are being hatched in rusty trailers.”

- The New York Times, July 29

* * *

The way the big-city newspapers tell it, every land-owning yokel on the wrong side of the state line is getting rich these days.

Our neighbors in northwestern Louisiana are lucky. They live on top of what many believe will be the largest natural gas discovery in the United States. It’s called the Haynesville Shale, except when it’s called the Bossier Shale, and it stretches into a good chunk of East Texas.

And the land rush is on. Continue reading

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Small town, big night

On Friday nights in the fall, the crowd at Buckeye Stadium in Gilmer can outnumber the population of the town.

Neighbors greet each other on their way to reserved seats. Little girls wear orange and black ribbons in their hair, and little boys toss footballs and tackle each other on the hill that overlooks the field. Continue reading

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Cattle ranchers dwindling in East Texas

Rusk County rancher Danny Jordan

Rusk County rancher Danny Jordan. Photo by Kevin Green.

Tidy rows of pine trees grow where cattle once grazed through the rolling hills of East Texas.

Housing developments and lignite mines have swallowed prime pasture land.

Around Longview, cows and calves are dotting fewer landscapes, and local ranchers blame rising costs, fluctuating markets and changing lifestyles for pushing people from cattle production, a rural business with long ties to East Texas. Continue reading

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Death Row: ‘I was a bad guy. I thought I was a gangster’

You didn’t mess with Big Al in the 1980s.

Strung out on methamphetamine, Alvin Andrew Kelly collected debts for a drug operation in Kilgore. In 1984, he shot his own roommate, set the man’s truck on fire and dumped the body on a road near Lake Cherokee.

He sold drugs. He stole. He sexually assaulted two of his fellow inmates in the Gregg County Jail.

“I was a bad guy,” said Kelly, who’s scheduled to be executed Tuesday. “I thought I was a gangster, you know what I’m saying?” Continue reading

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Area schools' wealth gap widening

An era of constant construction and renovation is under way at the wealthiest schools around the state, including Tatum and Carthage.

Through an exception to the Texas school finance system, districts the state considers wealthy can hang on to more of their local property taxes by taking on debt for construction and other projects. It’s an exception that is widening the gap between rich and poor schools, according to detractors. Continue reading

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Despite 30 years of losses, Sabine stays optimistic

DIANA – An artificial fog drifted across Eagle Stadium a week ago.

The third quarter was under way — New Diana versus Sabine, Friday night football — and long passes and the smaller players were lost as the smoky haze settled on the field.

“It’s just hanging, but it’ll blow out,” said Tobie Turner, the Sabine athletic booster club president.

He grinned sheepishly. The smoke was his doing. Following halftime, he’d gotten a little carried away with the fog machine that he sprays when the players are running onto the field, and now the fans in the bleachers could barely follow the action.

“If we’d just get a little breeze, it would dissipate,” he said. Continue reading

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East Texans recall the Great Depression

Many East Texans, such as this man shown in his Jefferson home in 1939, lived in poverty during the Great Depression. Photograph by Russell Lee, courtesy of the Library of Congress.

Whether they plowed behind mules, fried up bacon for hungry drifters or rode the oil boom out of poverty, five East Texans recall their experiences during the Great Depression of the 1930s.

They also offer their thoughts on today’s economic crisis. Continue reading

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Virginity rules the sex ed of East Texas

For the past seven years, virginity has ruled the sex education of area teenagers.

In that time, abstinence-only programs have come under fire nationwide, and after a cut in federal funding, the future is uncertain for the East Texas Abstinence Program’s Virginity Rules campaign.

Virginity Rules reaches 8,000 students in 25 area schools, according to its director. The program counsels teens, teaches them about pregnancy and the risks of sex, and encourages them to sign a “virginity vow” to wait until marriage to have sex. Continue reading

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A return to 'The Front'

Have you driven through the poorest neighborhoods in Longview recently?

Prostitutes and drug dealers wave to passing cars in residential areas. Spray-painted warnings to “keep out” sprawl across boarded windows.

Houses, some abandoned but most occupied, rot alongside rutted, single-lane streets.

“Families coming from the north side (of town) would probably be in a culture shock,” said Demetrius Davis, a family assistance coordinator for the city. Continue reading

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Area mystery mounds delight archaeologists

A couple of archeologists walk on a mound. Photo by Les Hassell.

A couple of archeologists walk on a mound. Photo by Les Hassell.

Locked away and hidden from the nearby town of Longview, largely undisturbed for a thousand years, is an ancient and mysterious place that guards the secrets of a vanished people.

It is a sacred place. It is a wide, grassy clearing set in the middle of a forest.

But the truly remarkable discovery — what intrigues and inspires archaeologists — cannot be found inside the clearing, but just beyond it.

There, eight enormous, earthen structures rise from the forest floor, forming a giant ring around the open space. They are ceremonial mounds, remnants of a group of Caddo Indians who emerged as the earliest rulers of East Texas.

“It’s a super-important site,” said Tim Perttula, an Austin-based archaeologist. Continue reading

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The Bigfoot hunter

Charlie DeVore, investigator with the Texas Bigfoot Research Center, paddles through a marshy area of Caddo Lake, near where there have been alleged sightings of Bigfoot.

Charlie DeVore, investigator with the Texas Bigfoot Research Center, paddles through a marshy area of Caddo Lake while watching for Bigfoot. Photo by Les Hassell.

BIG CYPRESS BAYOU — The motor sputtered, then died, and as the canoe drifted deeper into the swamp, gray tangles of Spanish moss gave way to murky water and black cypress.

Knuckles whitened as Charlie DeVore ripped the pull cord. His two-man canoe, three decades old and uneasy under the weight of three men, teetered dangerously with every tug.

DeVore yanked the cord once more, then gave up.

“We’ll just have to paddle,” he said.

There wasn’t time to fix the propeller, and there wasn’t time for precaution. The party pressed farther into the swamp, because that’s where Bigfoot was. Continue reading

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