Locked away and hidden from the nearby town of Longview, largely undisturbed for a thousand years, is an ancient and mysterious place that guards the secrets of a vanished people.
It is a sacred place. It is a wide, grassy clearing set in the middle of a forest.
But the truly remarkable discovery — what intrigues and inspires archaeologists — cannot be found inside the clearing, but just beyond it.
There, eight enormous, earthen structures rise from the forest floor, forming a giant ring around the open space. They are ceremonial mounds, remnants of a group of Caddo Indians who emerged as the earliest rulers of East Texas.
“It’s a super-important site,” said Tim Perttula, an Austin-based archaeologist.
The Egyptians had their pyramids. The Incas had Machu Picchu. The ancient peoples of East Texas had their mounds, and none in Texas are bigger or better preserved than the ones near Longview, according to files designating the site a nationally protected historic place.
The property is not open to the public. In exchange for access, the News-Journal agreed to report only that the site is on a bend of the Sabine River, just south of town.
Peeking in
Volunteer stewards keep a watchful eye over the site.
On a recent winter morning, Patti Haskins of Longview and Mark Walters of Kilgore scaled the mysterious mounds, treading carefully across ground strewn with leaves and pocked by rooting hogs.
“It would be really interesting to be in A.D. 1000 and peek through the bushes and see what was going on here,” Walters said. “It’s just hard for us to fathom what these people were doing. They thought they were the only people in the world.”
Indeed, it is incredible to linger among the round and rectangular mounds and ponder the people who built them. The tallest is just less than eight feet high, and the lengths and widths of them are many times that.
Taking great care, perhaps as part of religious or burial rituals, the Caddo selected specially colored dirt and hauled it by the basketload to form the massive heaps. Temples were then likely erected on the mounds.
“It’s amazing the amount of work you can get out of people in the name of religion,” Walters said. “There are maybe 100 graves under this mound. We just don’t know.”
If there are graves, he said, he and his colleagues have sworn to protect them. Others already have been lost.
Graves in peril
Ancient ceremonial sites and other important remnants of the Caddo people are in peril in East Texas, archaeologists say. Perttula has spent years documenting looting, grave-robbing and other damage to Caddo land.
Caddo Indians were buried with their possessions. Coveted by collectors, those possessions — including artifacts such as burial vessels and ancient pottery — can fetch thousands of dollars at collector shows and on the black market.
In the past two decades at Lake O’ the Pines alone, Perttula said, more than 250 graves have been exhumed illegally in two Caddo cemeteries on federal land. He said he has observed similar looting at other cemeteries throughout East Texas.
“At one, there were open grave pits for as far as the eye could see,” he wrote in a paper documenting the looting.
Perttula is the tribal archaeologist for the Caddo Nation in Western Oklahoma. He said tribe members find it difficult to slow the looting of land they were forced to leave in the early 1800s.
“It’s almost impossible to do anything about. It’s really hard to even find out when it’s happening, and usually when you find out about it, the looters finish and move on and there’s not much you can do,” he said.
“There are no laws except trespass laws to sites on private property. Of course, one of the things that drives the Caddo Indians insane is when they know one of their cemeteries is on private land and (someone is) digging it up.”
Fear of looting is why the location of the Longview mounds remains a secret, he said.
Surviving the odds
Unlike other Caddo sites around East Texas, the ring of ceremonial mounds on the Sabine River has led a charmed existence.
It narrowly avoided plunder in the 1930s, a time when archaeologists were driven to find museum-quality artifacts, rather than to learn about previous cultures. Surveying East Texas, a University of Texas archaeologist found one of the mounds, but he was unable to see the other seven through the thick vegetation.
Luckily, the archaeologist failed to grasp the importance of the site. Otherwise, it would have probably been destroyed, according to paperwork filed with the federal government’s National Register of Historic Places.
Thirty years later, the site survived another scare in the form of precocious teenager Buddy Calvin Jones. Jones was a Longview boy who was obsessed with the Caddo and their artifacts. His mother would drop him off at a site early in the morning. He’d dig all day, and at dusk she would retrieve him and his findings.
Jones got wind of the mounds. Hunting for artifacts in one of them, he dug a deep trench through it that is still visible. Jones quickly learned the mound was built of very fine, unstable silt.
“He almost got buried,” said Nelson Cowles, who was a friend of Jones. “His mom left him there that morning. He was digging 5 to 6 feet deep and getting in and out with a crude ladder.
“It caved in and buried him up to his waist. He had to dig himself out,” he said. “He said he didn’t think he’d ever go back there again.”
The National Register report says Jones returned with a friend, a front-end loader and plans to flatten the mound. A downpour came, and Jones abandoned the project.
Later, he became a professional archaeologist. He amassed an enormous collection of artifacts that he and his mother displayed in a private museum in Longview, and after he died in 1998 his mother donated the collection to the Gregg County Historical Museum. Haskins and other museum volunteers are cataloguing his findings.
Jones apparently never dug again at the ring of mounds on the river.
Unlocking the secrets
Archaeologists say the site, known as the Hudnall-Pirtle, is one of the most important Caddo centers in Texas. It could shed light on a time when American Indian culture was evolving to accommodate trade, a farming lifestyle and a tiered social structure with rulers and people being ruled.
From the mound center, priests or chiefs are thought to have reigned over the farmers in the surrounding countryside, demanding loyalty and tribute.
Archaeologists dug several test holes around the site. They found numerous artifacts outside the ring of mounds, but almost no artifacts within the ring. They concluded the area must have been an open plaza.
However, there are no plans to further excavate the site. Professional archaeologists earn their wages testing areas that are threatened by road construction, mining and other development. Despite a natural gas well pad that destroyed a corner of the Hudnall-Pirtle, there are no new threats to the federally protected site, and no money has been set aside for work there.
Perttula said he prefers to preserve, rather than excavate, such areas.
When he does excavate a site, he said, it is easy to become engrossed in the work. Every piece of pottery tells a story, and stains in the soil reveal the presence of wooden structures, tools and other materials that rotted away centuries ago but give clues to how the Caddo lived.
“I like a good mystery,” Perttula said. “I think of archaeologists as time detectives. You’re trying to make sense out of basically the chaos that went before, and there’s no one story, no one way to interpret it. You can’t prove it. You make your most compelling story.
“But people love a good mystery. They like to figure out stuff. I look at all these artifacts and stains in the ground, and now I have to make sense of it. That’s what keeps me in archaeology. That’s what’s fascinating.”
* * *
Important discovery near Longview
What: Eight ceremonial mounds that circle a giant plaza near the Sabine River south of Longview. There is evidence that temples were constructed on top of the mounds.
Recent history: While other sites around East Texas were being plundered for pottery and related artifacts, the Sabine River site went largely unnoticed until the 1980s.
Significance: Because it is relatively undisturbed, the site may explain how Caddo society became more complex, establishing rulers and regional trade.
Preservation: The nonprofit Archaeological Conservancy acquired the site, called the Hudnall-Pirtle, in 1986. In 1991, it was added to the National Register of Historic Places, giving it additional protection.
Learn more about the Caddo Indians
– The Depot Museum in Henderson displays artifacts that were removed from a village site to make way for a lignite mine in Rusk County. Address: 514 N. High St., Henderson; (903) 657-4303; www.depotmuseum.com
– The Caddoan Mounds State Historic Site west of Nacogdoches offers an interpretive center, an archeological experiment exhibit and walking trail. Address: 1649 Texas 21 W, Alto; (936) 858-3218
– Texas Beyond History, a virtual museum of Texas’ cultural heritage, includes a detailed section about the Caddo Indians. Online: www.texasbeyondhistory.net
* * *
Retired school teacher keeps alive love of Indian artifacts
HALLSVILLE — Anybody can wander a creek bed looking for arrowheads.
To be a serious artifact hunter, according to retired schoolteacher Nelson Cowles, one must do more than look around.
“First thing, you’ve got to get permission to get on the property. Years ago, I knew everybody,” said Cowles, 78, who began digging for artifacts in the 1960s.
“In the ’60s, you could find 50 or even 100 (artifacts) in a day,” he said.
When hunting, look for knolls beside creeks where spring branches run into a river, or check plowed fields after a rain, he said. Find washes and gullies or sand pits along the Sabine River. Then start digging.
“I can dig for a few hours, but I don’t have the energy to dig like I used to,” he said. “Golly, used to we’d be daylight to dusk out hunting.”
Cowles said he documents each of his artifacts to know where he found it. He said archaeologists who refer to collecting as “looting” need to lighten up.
“Of course, they don’t want anyone to pick up an arrowhead even,” he said. “There it is, but don’t pick it up.”
It’s true. Mark Walters, a volunteer archaeological steward for the Texas Historical Commission, said artifacts are better left untouched until an archaeologist can study the piece in its context.
“Leave it lay,” Walters said.
These days, Cowles said he spends less time digging and more time in his little shop, off Interstate 20 in Hallsville, crafting replica arrowheads and spear points.
Every Thursday, he and his cronies get together for an afternoon of flintknapping, squeezing into his workspace piled high with boxes of arrowheads, piles of pottery, trade beads and little ceramic pipes found around East Texas.
Cowles said the area remains rich in artifacts.
“Some we dug and some we didn’t,” he said.
“I know a lot of sites that haven’t been disturbed.”
1,717 responses to “Area mystery mounds delight archaeologists”
Helpful info. Lucky me I discovered your site by accident, and I’m shocked why this coincidence didn’t happened in advance! I bookmarked it.
I in addition to my buddies were reviewing the nice information on your site then unexpectedly I had a horrible suspicion I had not thanked the blog owner for those techniques. The young men appeared to be as a consequence joyful to see them and have now in actuality been using these things. Thanks for truly being so helpful as well as for going for this kind of cool ideas millions of individuals are really needing to discover. My very own sincere regret for not expressing gratitude to you sooner.
I have been exploring for a little bit for any high-quality articles or blog posts on this sort of area . Exploring in Yahoo I at last stumbled upon this web site. Reading this info So i? happy to convey that I’ve a very good uncanny feeling I discovered just what I needed. I most certainly will make sure to don? forget this site and give it a glance regularly.
Its like you read my mind! You seem to know so much about this, like you wrote the book in it or something. I think that you could do with a few pics to drive the message home a bit, but instead of that, this is magnificent blog. A fantastic read. I’ll definitely be back.
An additional issue is really that video gaming became one of the all-time biggest forms of recreation for people of various age groups. Kids play video games, and also adults do, too. The particular XBox 360 has become the favorite games systems for many who love to have a lot of video games available to them, plus who like to learn live with other individuals all over the world. Many thanks for sharing your notions.
Wow, superb blog layout! How long have you been blogging for? you made blogging look easy. The overall look of your site is fantastic, let alone the content!
It¦s really a cool and useful piece of information. I am happy that you just shared this useful information with us. Please stay us up to date like this. Thank you for sharing.
You completed some fine points there. I did a search on the subject and found mainly folks will go along with with your blog.
Hi! I know this is somewhat off topic but I was wondering which blog platform are you using for this website? I’m getting fed up of WordPress because I’ve had problems with hackers and I’m looking at options for another platform. I would be awesome if you could point me in the direction of a good platform.
I will right away snatch your rss feed as I can not to find your e-mail subscription link or newsletter service. Do you have any? Kindly allow me recognise so that I may just subscribe. Thanks.
Write more, thats all I have to say. Literally, it seems as though you relied on the video to make your point. You definitely know what youre talking about, why waste your intelligence on just posting videos to your weblog when you could be giving us something informative to read?
I was just searching for this information for some time. After six hours of continuous Googleing, finally I got it in your website. I wonder what’s the lack of Google strategy that don’t rank this kind of informative websites in top of the list. Normally the top websites are full of garbage.
I? must check with you here. Which is not one thing I often do! I take pleasure in studying a publish that may make individuals think. Additionally, thanks for allowing me to remark!
I? have to examine with you here. Which is not one thing I normally do! I take pleasure in reading a submit that can make folks think. Also, thanks for permitting me to comment!
Pretty section of content. I just stumbled upon your website and in accession capital to assert that I get actually enjoyed account your blog posts. Anyway I?l be subscribing to your feeds and even I achievement you access consistently rapidly.
you are actually a good webmaster. The website loading velocity is amazing. It sort of feels that you’re doing any unique trick. In addition, The contents are masterpiece. you’ve done a magnificent activity in this subject!
Great write-up, I am regular visitor of one? web site, maintain up the excellent operate, and It is going to be a regular visitor for a long time.
Something else is that when evaluating a good internet electronics store, look for web stores that are constantly updated, preserving up-to-date with the most recent products, the perfect deals, plus helpful information on products. This will make certain you are dealing with a shop that really stays over the competition and provide you what you need to make educated, well-informed electronics purchases. Thanks for the important tips I have learned through your blog.
I have learned some new things from your web site about computers. Another thing I have always considered is that computer systems have become a product that each family must have for several reasons. They supply you with convenient ways in which to organize households, pay bills, shop, study, hear music and perhaps watch television shows. An innovative technique to complete these tasks is by using a mobile computer. These computers are portable ones, small, effective and transportable.
Would you be fascinated with exchanging hyperlinks?
Greetings from Colorado! I’m bored to tears at work so I decided to check out your blog on my iphone during lunch break. I enjoy the knowledge you provide here and can’t wait to take a look when I get home. I’m surprised at how quick your blog loaded on my cell phone .. I’m not even using WIFI, just 3G .. Anyhow, fantastic site!
What i do not understood is actually how you are not really a lot more smartly-preferred than you may be right now. You’re very intelligent. You understand thus significantly in terms of this matter, made me in my view consider it from a lot of numerous angles. Its like women and men aren’t interested except it¦s one thing to accomplish with Woman gaga! Your own stuffs outstanding. Always deal with it up!
Normally I do not read post on blogs, but I wish to say that this write-up very forced me to try and do it! Your writing style has been surprised me. Thanks, quite nice post.
Thank you for any other magnificent article. Where else could anybody get that type of info in such an ideal way of writing? I’ve a presentation next week, and I’m at the look for such info.
Thanks so much for providing individuals with a very superb chance to read critical reviews from here. It’s always so sweet and also packed with fun for me and my office co-workers to search your website not less than three times in 7 days to study the new secrets you have got. Of course, I’m so at all times motivated with all the brilliant ideas you give. Certain 4 facts in this post are undoubtedly the most suitable I have ever had.
I relish, lead to I found just what I was taking a look for. You’ve ended my 4 day lengthy hunt! God Bless you man. Have a great day. Bye
Pretty nice post. I simply stumbled upon your blog and wished to say that I have really loved surfing around your blog posts. After all I will be subscribing to your feed and I hope you write again very soon!
Thanks for the suggestions you discuss through this blog. In addition, a lot of young women exactly who become pregnant will not even make an effort to get health insurance because they worry they probably would not qualify. Although many states currently require that insurers supply coverage no matter what about the pre-existing conditions. Charges on these guaranteed programs are usually higher, but when taking into consideration the high cost of medical care it may be a safer way to go to protect your current financial potential.
There are some fascinating points in time in this article however I don? know if I see all of them center to heart. There may be some validity but I will take hold opinion until I look into it further. Good article , thanks and we want more! Added to FeedBurner as effectively
Very nice post. I just stumbled upon your weblog and wanted to say that I’ve really enjoyed surfing around your blog posts. After all I?l be subscribing to your rss feed and I hope you write again soon!
I have read some good stuff here. Certainly worth bookmarking for revisiting. I wonder how much effort you put to create such a excellent informative site.
Thank you a lot for sharing this with all of us you actually realize what you’re speaking about! Bookmarked. Kindly additionally discuss with my web site =). We may have a link trade agreement among us!
Does your blog have a contact page? I’m having trouble locating it but, I’d like to send you an email. I’ve got some creative ideas for your blog you might be interested in hearing. Either way, great blog and I look forward to seeing it expand over time.
Hiya very cool blog!! Man .. Beautiful .. Amazing .. I will bookmark your blog and take the feeds I’m happy to seek out a lot of useful information right here within the put up, we want work out extra strategies in this regard, thank you for sharing. . . . . .
One more thing. I really believe that there are a lot of travel insurance web pages of dependable companies than enable you to enter holiday details to get you the prices. You can also purchase this international holiday insurance policy online by using your own credit card. All you have to do is always to enter your current travel details and you can start to see the plans side-by-side. Simply find the package that suits your allowance and needs and use your credit card to buy them. Travel insurance on the internet is a good way to start looking for a reputable company for international travel cover. Thanks for giving your ideas.
The things i have observed in terms of personal computer memory is that there are features such as SDRAM, DDR or anything else, that must fit in with the features of the mother board. If the personal computer’s motherboard is pretty current while there are no operating system issues, improving the storage space literally will take under a couple of hours. It’s one of the easiest laptop or computer upgrade types of procedures one can imagine. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
Do you mind if I quote a couple of your posts as long as I provide credit and sources back to your website? My blog is in the very same niche as yours and my visitors would really benefit from a lot of the information you present here. Please let me know if this ok with you. Cheers!
Thank you for writing this post. I like the subject too.
I’d like to find out more? I’d love to find out more details.
May I request that you elaborate on that? Your posts have been extremely helpful to me. Thank you!
Thank you for your articles. They are very helpful to me. May I ask you a question?
Very nice post. I certainly appreciate this site. Keep it up!
Thank you for your articles. I find them very helpful. Could you help me with something?
I enjoyed reading your piece and it provided me with a lot of value.
Thank you for your articles. They are very helpful to me. Can you help me with something?
I have been reading out many of your articles and i must say nice stuff. I will make sure to bookmark your website.
Thank you for your articles. I find them very helpful. Could you help me with something?
May I request that you elaborate on that? Your posts have been extremely helpful to me. Thank you!
Thanks for posting. I really enjoyed reading it, especially because it addressed my problem. It helped me a lot and I hope it will help others too.
Please provide me with more details on the topic