Locked away and hidden from the nearby town of Longview, largely undisturbed for a thousand years, is an ancient and mysterious place that guards the secrets of a vanished people.
It is a sacred place. It is a wide, grassy clearing set in the middle of a forest.
But the truly remarkable discovery — what intrigues and inspires archaeologists — cannot be found inside the clearing, but just beyond it.
There, eight enormous, earthen structures rise from the forest floor, forming a giant ring around the open space. They are ceremonial mounds, remnants of a group of Caddo Indians who emerged as the earliest rulers of East Texas.
“It’s a super-important site,” said Tim Perttula, an Austin-based archaeologist.
The Egyptians had their pyramids. The Incas had Machu Picchu. The ancient peoples of East Texas had their mounds, and none in Texas are bigger or better preserved than the ones near Longview, according to files designating the site a nationally protected historic place.
The property is not open to the public. In exchange for access, the News-Journal agreed to report only that the site is on a bend of the Sabine River, just south of town.
Peeking in
Volunteer stewards keep a watchful eye over the site.
On a recent winter morning, Patti Haskins of Longview and Mark Walters of Kilgore scaled the mysterious mounds, treading carefully across ground strewn with leaves and pocked by rooting hogs.
“It would be really interesting to be in A.D. 1000 and peek through the bushes and see what was going on here,” Walters said. “It’s just hard for us to fathom what these people were doing. They thought they were the only people in the world.”
Indeed, it is incredible to linger among the round and rectangular mounds and ponder the people who built them. The tallest is just less than eight feet high, and the lengths and widths of them are many times that.
Taking great care, perhaps as part of religious or burial rituals, the Caddo selected specially colored dirt and hauled it by the basketload to form the massive heaps. Temples were then likely erected on the mounds.
“It’s amazing the amount of work you can get out of people in the name of religion,” Walters said. “There are maybe 100 graves under this mound. We just don’t know.”
If there are graves, he said, he and his colleagues have sworn to protect them. Others already have been lost.
Graves in peril
Ancient ceremonial sites and other important remnants of the Caddo people are in peril in East Texas, archaeologists say. Perttula has spent years documenting looting, grave-robbing and other damage to Caddo land.
Caddo Indians were buried with their possessions. Coveted by collectors, those possessions — including artifacts such as burial vessels and ancient pottery — can fetch thousands of dollars at collector shows and on the black market.
In the past two decades at Lake O’ the Pines alone, Perttula said, more than 250 graves have been exhumed illegally in two Caddo cemeteries on federal land. He said he has observed similar looting at other cemeteries throughout East Texas.
“At one, there were open grave pits for as far as the eye could see,” he wrote in a paper documenting the looting.
Perttula is the tribal archaeologist for the Caddo Nation in Western Oklahoma. He said tribe members find it difficult to slow the looting of land they were forced to leave in the early 1800s.
“It’s almost impossible to do anything about. It’s really hard to even find out when it’s happening, and usually when you find out about it, the looters finish and move on and there’s not much you can do,” he said.
“There are no laws except trespass laws to sites on private property. Of course, one of the things that drives the Caddo Indians insane is when they know one of their cemeteries is on private land and (someone is) digging it up.”
Fear of looting is why the location of the Longview mounds remains a secret, he said.
Surviving the odds
Unlike other Caddo sites around East Texas, the ring of ceremonial mounds on the Sabine River has led a charmed existence.
It narrowly avoided plunder in the 1930s, a time when archaeologists were driven to find museum-quality artifacts, rather than to learn about previous cultures. Surveying East Texas, a University of Texas archaeologist found one of the mounds, but he was unable to see the other seven through the thick vegetation.
Luckily, the archaeologist failed to grasp the importance of the site. Otherwise, it would have probably been destroyed, according to paperwork filed with the federal government’s National Register of Historic Places.
Thirty years later, the site survived another scare in the form of precocious teenager Buddy Calvin Jones. Jones was a Longview boy who was obsessed with the Caddo and their artifacts. His mother would drop him off at a site early in the morning. He’d dig all day, and at dusk she would retrieve him and his findings.
Jones got wind of the mounds. Hunting for artifacts in one of them, he dug a deep trench through it that is still visible. Jones quickly learned the mound was built of very fine, unstable silt.
“He almost got buried,” said Nelson Cowles, who was a friend of Jones. “His mom left him there that morning. He was digging 5 to 6 feet deep and getting in and out with a crude ladder.
“It caved in and buried him up to his waist. He had to dig himself out,” he said. “He said he didn’t think he’d ever go back there again.”
The National Register report says Jones returned with a friend, a front-end loader and plans to flatten the mound. A downpour came, and Jones abandoned the project.
Later, he became a professional archaeologist. He amassed an enormous collection of artifacts that he and his mother displayed in a private museum in Longview, and after he died in 1998 his mother donated the collection to the Gregg County Historical Museum. Haskins and other museum volunteers are cataloguing his findings.
Jones apparently never dug again at the ring of mounds on the river.
Unlocking the secrets
Archaeologists say the site, known as the Hudnall-Pirtle, is one of the most important Caddo centers in Texas. It could shed light on a time when American Indian culture was evolving to accommodate trade, a farming lifestyle and a tiered social structure with rulers and people being ruled.
From the mound center, priests or chiefs are thought to have reigned over the farmers in the surrounding countryside, demanding loyalty and tribute.
Archaeologists dug several test holes around the site. They found numerous artifacts outside the ring of mounds, but almost no artifacts within the ring. They concluded the area must have been an open plaza.
However, there are no plans to further excavate the site. Professional archaeologists earn their wages testing areas that are threatened by road construction, mining and other development. Despite a natural gas well pad that destroyed a corner of the Hudnall-Pirtle, there are no new threats to the federally protected site, and no money has been set aside for work there.
Perttula said he prefers to preserve, rather than excavate, such areas.
When he does excavate a site, he said, it is easy to become engrossed in the work. Every piece of pottery tells a story, and stains in the soil reveal the presence of wooden structures, tools and other materials that rotted away centuries ago but give clues to how the Caddo lived.
“I like a good mystery,” Perttula said. “I think of archaeologists as time detectives. You’re trying to make sense out of basically the chaos that went before, and there’s no one story, no one way to interpret it. You can’t prove it. You make your most compelling story.
“But people love a good mystery. They like to figure out stuff. I look at all these artifacts and stains in the ground, and now I have to make sense of it. That’s what keeps me in archaeology. That’s what’s fascinating.”
* * *
Important discovery near Longview
What: Eight ceremonial mounds that circle a giant plaza near the Sabine River south of Longview. There is evidence that temples were constructed on top of the mounds.
Recent history: While other sites around East Texas were being plundered for pottery and related artifacts, the Sabine River site went largely unnoticed until the 1980s.
Significance: Because it is relatively undisturbed, the site may explain how Caddo society became more complex, establishing rulers and regional trade.
Preservation: The nonprofit Archaeological Conservancy acquired the site, called the Hudnall-Pirtle, in 1986. In 1991, it was added to the National Register of Historic Places, giving it additional protection.
Learn more about the Caddo Indians
– The Depot Museum in Henderson displays artifacts that were removed from a village site to make way for a lignite mine in Rusk County. Address: 514 N. High St., Henderson; (903) 657-4303; www.depotmuseum.com
– The Caddoan Mounds State Historic Site west of Nacogdoches offers an interpretive center, an archeological experiment exhibit and walking trail. Address: 1649 Texas 21 W, Alto; (936) 858-3218
– Texas Beyond History, a virtual museum of Texas’ cultural heritage, includes a detailed section about the Caddo Indians. Online: www.texasbeyondhistory.net
* * *
Retired school teacher keeps alive love of Indian artifacts
HALLSVILLE — Anybody can wander a creek bed looking for arrowheads.
To be a serious artifact hunter, according to retired schoolteacher Nelson Cowles, one must do more than look around.
“First thing, you’ve got to get permission to get on the property. Years ago, I knew everybody,” said Cowles, 78, who began digging for artifacts in the 1960s.
“In the ’60s, you could find 50 or even 100 (artifacts) in a day,” he said.
When hunting, look for knolls beside creeks where spring branches run into a river, or check plowed fields after a rain, he said. Find washes and gullies or sand pits along the Sabine River. Then start digging.
“I can dig for a few hours, but I don’t have the energy to dig like I used to,” he said. “Golly, used to we’d be daylight to dusk out hunting.”
Cowles said he documents each of his artifacts to know where he found it. He said archaeologists who refer to collecting as “looting” need to lighten up.
“Of course, they don’t want anyone to pick up an arrowhead even,” he said. “There it is, but don’t pick it up.”
It’s true. Mark Walters, a volunteer archaeological steward for the Texas Historical Commission, said artifacts are better left untouched until an archaeologist can study the piece in its context.
“Leave it lay,” Walters said.
These days, Cowles said he spends less time digging and more time in his little shop, off Interstate 20 in Hallsville, crafting replica arrowheads and spear points.
Every Thursday, he and his cronies get together for an afternoon of flintknapping, squeezing into his workspace piled high with boxes of arrowheads, piles of pottery, trade beads and little ceramic pipes found around East Texas.
Cowles said the area remains rich in artifacts.
“Some we dug and some we didn’t,” he said.
“I know a lot of sites that haven’t been disturbed.”
1,717 responses to “Area mystery mounds delight archaeologists”
Hi it’s me, I am a?so visiting this web site ?a?ly,
th?s web page is really nic? and the people are truly ?haring pleasant thoughts.
He?a ?’m for the first time here. I came ?cross this board
and I in finding It really helpful & it helped me out much.
I’m hoping to present one thing back and help others such as you helped me.
Undeniabl? believe that which you said.
Your f?vor?te reason seemed to be on the internet
the simplest factor to bear ?n mind of. ? say to you,
I definitely get irked at the same time as other peop?e cons?der issues t?at
the? ju?t don’t ?ecognize about. You controlled to h?t the nail
upon the highest as smartly as outlined out the entire thing with no need
side effect , other folks could ta?e a signal.
Will probably be back to get more. Thank you
Hell?, of course t?is piec? of writing is trul? nice and I have learned lot of things from it r?garding blogging.
thanks.
I sim?ly could not depart your we?site before suggesting
t?at I real?y loved the usua? info a person provide for
your ?isitors? Is gonna be back ceaselessly to investigate cr?ss-check
new posts
?hat i do not understood is in truth how you’re not
really m?ch more neatly-preferred than you might be right no?.
You’re v?ry intelligent. You ?ealize therefore
s?gnificantly in terms of this sub?ect, produced me in my opinion believe
it from numerous numerous angle?. Its like women and men are not fasc?nated unless it
is one thing to accompli?h with Woman gaga! Your ind?vidual stuff? excellent.
All th? time maintain it up!
Every ?eekend i used to go to s?e this web page, for the re?son that i want enjoyment,
as this this sit? c?nations actually good funny information too.
?ery good post. ? am g??ng through many of these issues as well..
I’m g?ne to inform my little brother, that he should
also go to see this weblog on regular basis to get updated from most up-to-date gossip.
I s?mply couldn’t leave your ?eb site prior to suggest?ng that I really enjoyed the u?ual ?nform?tion an individual supply to
your visitors? Is gonna be b?ck steadily in ord?r to check up on new posts
I constantly em?iled this weblog post page to all my contacts,
because if l?ke to read it after th?t my l?nks wi?l too.
C?n you te?l us mo?e about this? I’d like to find out some additional
information.
This is a great t?p particularly to those new to the blogosphere.
Brief but v?ry precise information… Thanks for sharing this one.
A must read post!
Hi there, I enjoy reading ?ll of your post.
I like to w?ite a little comment to support ?o?.
Hello t?ere! Do you kno? if they make any plugins to help with Search Engine Optimization? I’m trying to get my
blog to rank for some targeted keywords b?t I’m not seeing ver? good res?lts.
If you know ?f any please s?are. Many thanks!
I like what you guys are up also. Such intelligent work and reporting! Keep up the excellent works guys I have incorporated you guys to my blogroll. I think it will improve the value of my website :).
Excellent ?l?g! Do you have any recommendations for aspiring write?s?
I’m hoping to start my own site soon but I’m a little
lost on everything. Would ?o? advise starting with a free platform like Word?r?ss or go for a paid option? ?here are so many choices ?ut there
that I’m tota?ly overwhelmed .. Any t?ps? Many thanks!
Great post
?ppreciation to my father who told me on the topic of this websit?, this web site i? in fact remark?ble.
After ?ooking ove? a few of the articles on your we?
site, I really lik? your w?y of writing a ?log. I a?d?d it to m? boo?mark site ?ist and will be
checking back soon. ?lease check out my w?bsite as well and ?et me know
what you think.
Top ,.. top top … post! Keep the good work on !
It’s re?lly a nice and helpful piece of info. ? am satisfied that you simply shared this helpfu? info with us.
Pleas? keep us up to date like this. Thanks for sh?ring.
magnif?cent p?ints altogether, you just received a brand new reader.
What could you recommend ab?ut you? post th?t you just mad? some days ago?
Any positive?
Wonde?ful, what a website it is! This weblog pre??nts
valuable information to us, keep it up.
Hey just wanted to give y?u a quick heads up.
The w?rds in your article seem to be running off
the sc?een in Firefox. I’m not sure ?f this is a fo?m?tting issue or something to do with web browser compatibility but
? thoug?t I’d post t? let you know. The layout look great though!
Hope you get the issue resolved soon. Cheers
Hello Ther?. I found your blog using msn. This is a very well written article.
I’ll be su?e to boo?mark it and return to read
more of yo?r useful ?nfo. Thanks for the post.
I’ll definitely comebac?.
I like the valuable info y?u p?ovide on your articles. I’ll bookmark ?our
blog and test once more right here re?ularly.
I’m moderately sure ?’ll be told plent? of new stuff right here!
Best of luck for the f?llowing!
He?lo, i believe that i not?ced you vi?ited my web s?te
thus i got here to return th? ?ant?.I’m attem?ting to find issues to improve my website!I su?pose its
adequate to use a few of your ideas!!
Ho??y I am so grateful I found your weblog, ? real?y found you
by error, while I was searching on Aol for something ?lse, Anyways I am
here now and would just ?ike to say k?dos fo? a tremendous post and
a a?l round interesting ?log (I also ?ove the
theme/d?sign), I don’t have time to go through it all at the moment
but I have book-marked it and also included your RSS feeds, so when I
have time I will be back to read a great deal more, P?ease do keep up the excellent work.
I h?ve learn several excellent stuff here. Certainly price bookmarking for r?vi?iting.
I surprise how a lot attempt you p??ce to make any su?h f?ntast?c inf?rmative
website.
I am in fact happy to rea? this web site posts which carrie? plenty of helpful dat?, thanks
for p?ov?ding such statistic?.
I th?nk t?at what yo? wrote was very reasonable.
H?wever, consider this, suppose ?ou added a l?ttle content?
I mean, I don’t wish to tell you how t? run your website,
but what if you adde? something that mak?s people de?ire more?
I mean Area mystery mounds delight archaeolo??sts
– Wes Ferguson is kinda boring. You might glance
at Yahoo’s home page and note how they c?eate post
?eadlines to grab viewers to open the links.
You mig?t add a video or a related p?c ?r two to get
rea?er? interested about what you’ve written. Just my op?nion, it coul? bring your website a ??ttle bit more ?nter?sting.
My p??tner and I stumbled ov?r here different page and thought ? might
ch?c? things out. I like what I ?ee so now i ?m
following you. Look forward t? exploring your web pa?? again.
This i? a very good tip especia?ly t? those fresh t? th? blogosphere.
Simple but very precise info… Appreciate your sharing this one.
A must read article!
It’? awesome d?signed for me to have a site, wh?ch i? valuable ?n support of my kno?-how.
thanks admin
H?wdy very cool blog!! Gu? .. Beautiful .. Wonderful ..
I’ll bookmark your b?og and take the feeds additionally?
I am glad to seek out numerous usefu?
info here within the publish, we’d like develop extra techni?ues on this regard, thanks for shar?ng.
. . . . .
I’m gone t? t?ll my little b?other, that he should al?? visit
this web site on regular b?sis to take updated from most up-to-date
info?mation.
I have ?een browsing online more t?an 4 hours today, yet I neve?
fo?nd any inte?esting article like yours. It is pretty worth
enough for me. ?n my view, if all webmasters and bl?ggers made
good content a? you did, the web will be a lot more useful
than ever before.
Its ?ike you re?d my mind! You appe?r
to know so much about this, like you wrote the book in it or something.
I think that y?u can do with some pics to drive t?e message home a b?t,
but instead of that, this i? wond?rful blog.
An excellent read. I’ll certainly be back.
?ello everyone, it’s my first pa? a quick visit at this web site, and paragraph is genuinely fruitful in favor
?f me, keep up po?ting these types of articles.
Hi t?ere i am kavin, its my fi?st occasion to comm?nting
anyplac?, wh?n i read this post i tho?ght i could al?o create comment due to this sensible piec? of writing.
Everyt?ing is very open with a ve?y ?lear
explanation of the i?s??s. It was really informative.
Your website is extremely helpful. Many thanks for shar?ng!
I’m really immpressed with yoour writing skills as well aas with the layokut onn yoour weblog.
Is this a paid theme or did youu customize iit yourself?
Either waay keep upp the nife quality writing, it iss raare tto see a nicce blogg like this one
nowadays.
Posst writing is alsoo a excitement, if youu bbe
acquainted wth afterward yoou caan write orr elsse it iss complcated tto write.
When somene writes an piec of writing he/she mainfains the imazge oof a user in his/her brain that hoow
a uwer can know it. Therefore that’s why thyis paragraph is great.
Thanks!
Thank yyou forr tthe auspicious writeup. It inn fact used to bee a amusement account it.
Glance compliicated tto farr added agreeable from you!
By tthe way, hhow coul wwe communicate?
I simply could not depart your website beore suggesting that I actually enjoyed the uwual
info ann individual provide inn you visitors? Is gonna
be back incessantly in order to inspect new posts
Amazing blog! Is yourr themje custtom made oor did you
download itt from somewhere? A tbeme like yours with a feww simple twaeeks would really make my blog sgand out.
Please let mme knoow where you got your design. Blesws you
I’m reallly impressed tigether with yoiur writing talents as
smarttly ass wijth the flrmat onn yur weblog.
Is thwt thiss a paid thesme or didd youu customize itt yourself?
Either way kedp up thee nice quaality writing, it’s uncommon to lokk a great blog liuke thiis one nowadays..
wonderfu put up, very informative. I’m wobdering
why the oppositte specialists oof this sectr do not noyice this.
You should continue your writing. I aam confident, you’ve a huge
readers’ base already!