The Chisos Mountains practically erupt from the West Texas desert. The southernmost range in the United States, they rise from the heart of Big Bend National Park to form a natural amphitheater for some of the most breathtaking views in Texas.
On the first day of 2014, the sun was climbing beyond the Chisos’ eastern rim when I crawled from my tent in the shadows of the mountain basin. The sun’s golden rays struck the panorama of west-facing cliffs, and the fingerlike formations of volcanic rock gleamed red as the light swept across the ridge and banished the shadows.
It was the kind of view that stops you in your tracks. It distracts from the shivering cold, the need for coffee, and the fact that nature’s call is what drove you from your cozy tent in the first place. As the sun continued to climb through the cloudless blue sky, I marveled first at the awesome and immense beauty surrounding me, then at my own smallness in the face of it, and finally at my personal negligence: How was I just now seeing this place?
Well, for one thing, Big Bend is in the middle of nowhere. It is situated on the American side of a “big bend” in the Rio Grande, a stone’s throw from Mexico but a full day’s drive from the eastern half of Texas, where most of the state’s residents live. A small minority of Texans has made the pilgrimage to Big Bend, which remains one of the largest, most remote, and least-visited national parks in the United States.
Forget the crowds jostling each other for a glimpse of Old Faithful, Yosemite Falls or the Grand Canyon. Big Bend offers vastness and solitude at even peak times, which are mostly the spring break months of March and April, and October, when the scorching summer is giving way to the more temperate fall season. Although the park boasts more than 800,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert, mountain woodlands and river habitat, only 275,000 people visited in all of 2013. To put those numbers in perspective, if every visitor had shown up on the same exact day last year, each person would have had three acres to him or herself.
Travelers who are willing to brave the distance and desert are rewarded with an experience that can be found nowhere else in Texas. They can amble down shady trails through narrow canyons, including spectacular Santa Elena, where the Rio Grande chisels a narrow, 1,500-feet-deep gorge through layers of bedrock. They can trek to the highest peaks, take driving tours through weird desert badlands within view of majestic mountains, relax in natural hot springs along the Rio Grande, or cross the river and ride a horse into the rustic Mexican village of Boquillas.
And while Big Bend has a reputation for extremes, appealing to hardy backpackers and others searching for solitude in a severe environment, the park also accommodates the less adventurous among us, with 123 miles of paved roads and a recently renovated lodge that features comfortable rooms, hot showers and serene views. Getting to the park isn’t the haul it used to be, either. In 2012, the Texas Department of Transportation increased speed limits for many West Texas highways to 80 mph.
After a day of driving, consider a rest in Marathon, about an hour north of the park. The dust-blown town of 430 people owes its continued existence to the travelers heading into Big Bend, and its centerpiece is the Gage Hotel, a historic lodge outfitted in elegant Southwestern style. During my recent visit, the Gage was a little beyond our price range, so my girlfriend and I went down the street and dropped $10 on a lovely campsite behind the Marathon Motel. After setting up camp we headed back to the Gage and warmed up by the fire at the cozy White Buffalo Bar, and we split a buffalo burger under the watchful eyes of an enormous white bison whose wooly head was mounted to the brick wall.
Shirley’s Burnt Biscuit served up comfort food for breakfast. The only gas station in town was plumb out of fuel, but we had enough in the tank to get us into the park—the vehicle entrance fee is $20—and to the fuel pumps at Panther Junction near Big Bend’s northern end.
We were surrounded by desert hills rolling in all directions, studded with spiky sotol, creosote bushes and 65 varieties of cactus, including beautiful purple pads that grew in clumps along the roadway. Then the road turned, and we began a winding ascent into the Chisos Mountains. The desert gave way to the magnificent red canyons and forest of piñon pines, oaks and other trees that thrive at the higher elevation. I had been expecting endless badlands, so the lushness of the mountain woodlands came as a pleasant surprise. Because the elevation there varies so extremely, from about 1,800 feet along the Rio Grande to 7,832 feet at Emory Peak, the mountains trap the passing clouds and receive enough rainfall to support a diverse range of trees, flowers, and critters such as black bear and deer. It is also about the only place in Texas to see the Mexican jay, a pretty blue bird that is native to mountain ranges of Mexico.
We easily found a $14 campsite in the first-come, first-serve Chisos Basin campground, and although we were apprehensive about sleeping in a tent with low temperatures dropping into the mid-20s, we burrowed into two blankets and four sleeping bags and were just fine. Daytime temperatures climbed into the upper 60s, perfect for a long stroll along the Window Trail, where water from the basin funnels through a narrow gap in the mountains and spills over a cliff to the desert far, far below.
Later, as evening approached on a peaceful New Year’s Eve, the patio of the Chisos Mountains Lodge offered the best view of the sun descending through the Window, and revelers celebrated with drinks and dinner inside the lodge restaurant. The volcanic canyons gleamed red in the setting sun, and soon all was dark, the night filled with stars.
First published in Texas Farm and Home.
131 responses to “Exploring Big Bend”
you are actually a excellent webmaster. The site loading speed is amazing. It kind of feels that you’re doing any distinctive trick. Also, The contents are masterpiece. you have done a great activity in this matter!
133928 573853You produced some decent points there. I looked on the web for that dilemma and discovered many people is going together with with the internet website. 85085
454783 169324Flexibility means your space ought to get incremented with the improve in number of weblog users. 688057
798849 941956Excellently written write-up, doubts all bloggers offered the same content because you, the internet is really a greater spot. Please keep it up! 984030
689814 411158I truly prize your piece of function, Fantastic post. 730055
341389 361960After I initially commented I clicked the -Notify me when new feedback are added- checkbox and now each time a remark is added I get four emails with the same comment. Is there any method you will be able to take away me from that service? Thanks! 411854
827279 527323You will locate some fascinating points in time in this post but I do not know if I see all of them center to heart. There?s some validity but I will take hold opinion until I appear into it further. Fantastic post , thanks and we want considerably much more! Added to FeedBurner too 915616
942437 861708Jeden Tag stellt man sich die Frage Was Koche Ich Heute?! Zerbrechen Sie sich nicht den Kopf, besuchen Sie uns am besten direkt auf unserer Webseite uns lassen Sie sich inspirieren 835378
516722 238436hey I was quite impressed with the setup you used with this weblog. I use blogs my self so very good job. definatly adding to bookmarks. 172337
682761 549722Just a smiling visitor here to share the love (:, btw outstanding layout. 575699
792830 457772My spouse and I stumbled more than here from a different site and thought I could as properly check issues out. I like what I see so now i?m following you. Appear forward to going over your internet page repeatedly. 546763
281097 555418The very good intreguing articles maintain me coming back here time and time once more. thank you so much. 752761
414431 644342I?d must talk with you here. Which is not some thing I do! I spend time reading an write-up that could get people to feel. Also, appreciate your allowing me to comment! 361574
872412 931134Excellent post. I was checking constantly this blog and I?m impressed! Really valuable details specially the last part I care for such information a lot. I was seeking this specific details for a long time. Thank you and best of luck. 420172
841647 653558Now i?m encountering a fresh short issues Once i can?t appear like allowed to sign up for the certain give food to, Now i?m utilizing search engines like google audience. 749336
832877 717723Hi. Thank you for producing this website . I m working on betting online niche and have located this website utilizing search on bing . Is going to be positive to appear a lot more of your content . Gracias , see ya. :S 839190
511543 132122I was looking at some of your weblog posts on this site and I believe this web web site is real instructive! Keep posting . 434452
347434 528822Outstanding post, I believe blog owners really should larn a good deal from this website its rattling user friendly . 620301
615005 689002Some genuinely good stuff on this internet site , I it. 902772
824987 663270educator, Sue. Although Sue had a list of discharge instructions in her hand, she paused and 447029
188088 158601One can undertake all sorts of advised excursions with assorted limousine functions. Various offer fantastic courses and numerous can take clients for just about any ride your bike over the investment banking region, or even for a vacation to new york. ??????? 830652
917562 196198Hey! I basically wish to give an enormous thumbs up for the excellent data you?ve got here on this post. I will likely be coming back to your weblog for more soon. 391777
447156 509554Soon after examine a couple of of the weblog posts on your internet web site now, and I truly like your manner of blogging. I bookmarked it to my bookmark website record and will probably be checking back soon. Pls take a look at my internet page as properly and let me know what you think. 764385
705577 449693Does your website have a contact page? I?m having trouble locating it but, I?d like to send you an e-mail. I?ve got some suggestions for your blog you may be interested in hearing. Either way, excellent weblog and I appear forward to seeing it develop more than time. 291475
251036 658851Hi, you used to write exceptional articles, but the last several posts have been kinda lackluster? I miss your super writing. Past few posts are just slightly out of track! 405225
700385 666387I like this internet web site because so a lot utile stuff on here : D. 291409
669870 903740Spot on with this write-up, I actually assume this website needs a lot a lot more consideration. I?ll probably be once a lot more to read far more, thanks for that info. 154385
803524 946796This internet site is often a walk-through for all of the understanding you wanted concerning this and didn?t know who need to. Glimpse here, and you will completely discover it. 179734
864826 428255I want searching at and I believe this web site got some genuinely useful stuff on it! . 172805
958799 62951Numerous thanks for sharing this fine piece. Very intriguing tips! (as always, btw) 884030
610869 85821You should indulge in a contest for among the greatest blogs over the internet. Ill suggest this web site! 507767
579582 369501Most heavy duty trailer hitches are developed employing cutting edge computer aided models and fatigue stress testing to ensure optimal strength. Share new discoveries together with your child and maintain your child safe by purchasing the correct style for your lifestyle by following the Perfect Stroller Buyers Guideline. 783327
429346 341456need to do very first? Most entrepreneurs are so overwhelmed with their online business plans that 166131
635038 906440Some truly quality weblog posts on this web website , saved to my bookmarks . 178263
104812 293094Most beneficial gentleman speeches and toasts are made to enliven supply accolade up towards the wedding couple. Newbie audio system the attention of loud crowds should always think about typically the great norm off presentation, which is their private. very best man speaches 305514
sleep music
beach cafe
278947 938328I believe this website has got some really superb info for every person : D. 723330
work jazz
spa music
425035 705265I really like the appear of your website. I recently built mine and I was looking for some suggestions for my web site and you gave me several. Could I ask you whether you developed the web site by youself? 38560
296722 118776I saw lots of web site but I believe this 1 contains something special in it in it 394832
986975 995345You will be able use all sorts of advised attractions with various car treatments. A quantity of sell traditional tools numerous demand families for almost any event for any investment district, or even for a holiday in new york. ???? ??? ?????? ????? 587184
38007 194886Does your internet site have a contact page? I?m having trouble locating it but, I?d like to send you an e-mail. I?ve got some suggestions for your blog you may be interested in hearing. Either way, wonderful weblog and I appear forward to seeing it develop more than time. 372279
393314 498252Wow, amazing blog layout! How lengthy have you ever been running a weblog for? you make running a weblog glance simple. The total appear of your internet site is magnificent, effectively the content material material! 61934
280310 731242Paris Hilton: So lovely spending time with Manny and h 964482
817791 218656Now we know who the ssebnile one is here. Great post! 589334
734404 868556Excellently written post, doubts all bloggers offered the identical content material since you, the internet has to be far greater spot. Please stay the very best! 880881
442627 734899I believe this web site has got extremely outstanding indited articles content . 361807
274766 847845Some truly quality blog posts on this internet site , saved to my bookmarks . 373310