This is a story I wrote for The Daily Texan in like 2003. I still try to swing by the ’Bone a couple of times a year.
If you happen to run your finger over a bullet hole in the wall of the Devil’s Backbone Tavern, don’t worry—it’s just a remnant of rowdier days.
Most of the old-timers who shot up the walls and ceiling of the small rock structure are dead and gone, and the ones still around say they are now too old to bother. Instead, they sit back and drink their Milwaukee’s Best Light, the cheapest beer in the house, and tell stories that mingle legend with history.
For instance, the place is haunted. Always has been.
“Oh, there are ghosts, I guaran-goddamn-tee you,” said Robert Kelly, a regular who said he sometimes sees shadowy figures on a steep nearby ridge called the Devil’s Backbone, for which the tavern is named.
Brushes with the paranormal are to be expected in a place like this, where the face of the Devil himself is manifest in a rock mortared into the stonework above the fireplace at the back wall.
In fact, many claim the Backbone—the ridge and the tavern—is the most-haunted spot in the state.Amanda Joan Couve, a bartender who studies sociology at Southwest Texas State University, has had her share of run-ins with the ghost. He tends to stick to the south end of the place, rearranging furniture, turning off lights and causing all-around mayhem, said Couve. On summer nights when the air is still as death, the door that leads to the adjoining dance hall inexplicably slams to and fro. Other nights, before they went ahead and tied it to the wall, the box fan fell to the floor whenever Couve walked nearby.
“It was weird,” she said. “It was like the ghost was mad at me or something.”
Couve thinks the tavern is haunted by a man shot dead as he walked into the bar years ago, when the place was rowdier. But the older folk, who remember those lawless days, tend to agree it’s a Native American killed in some ancient and forgotten Indian battle. Still others say their spooked friends are full of it.
“My daddy, my grandpa and my great-grandpa lived around here, and we never saw anything,” said Floyd Fischer, who spends most afternoons at the table by the window, swapping stories and sipping on a cold beer.
At 62, he’s frequented the tavern for decades, as his father did before him. He grew up along the Backbone, trapping ringtails that fetched $50 at a time when a full day’s labor could bring in as little as a dollar a day.
Today, he lives in a little ranching community on the other side of the ridge named for his ancestors, the Fischers, German immigrants who settled the area in the 1850s. He maintains a spread of land passed down through the generations, and his cousins still populate the area. In short, Fischer is one of the old-timers.
Fischer distinguishes between several different types of folks at the Devil’s Backbone Tavern. You’ve got your old-timers, the people who grew up around the ridge; college kids driving in from San Marcos; bikers; and the newcomers.
First, there are the guys with the Harleys, who in recent years have begun frequenting the place on nights and weekends: “We’re overrun by bikers, but they’re all good people now,” he said. “When I grew up in this country, they rode the old Indian bikes. Now those were bad people.”
Back in those days, if you saw a bike parked in front of the tavern, you didn’t stop. But now the bikers are mostly doctors and lawyers, a fine sort, he said.
Then there are the newcomers.
They’re the folks who made their money at big-city jobs and then retired to places like Wimberley – where you don’t ask people where they’re from, but what part of Houston they’re from – or they live out on Canyon Lake and commute to Austin and San Antonio.
Pretty much anybody who has moved into the area within the past two or three decades is considered a newcomer, it seems. The winding road to the tavern from Wimberley is dotted by billboards advertising Hill Country land for sale, and people continue to take up the offers in droves.
Development is driving up the cost of land in the area, and Fischer said ignorance on the part of the newcomers has transformed the landscape of the region and has even led to an invasion of coyotes.
“In the old days, my daddy and relatives wiped the coyotes out of this country, or you couldn’t raise sheep and goats and make a living,” he said. “They were gone the whole time I grew up in this country, until I retired. Things got populated, and nobody would cut the cedar or do anything, so, hell, they had all the cover they needed.”
While the coyotes move in, the old-timers’ children continue to move off. Fischer said most have to leave to find a living wage.
“There’s no jobs around here unless you work in the bar or at a convenience store,” he said. “I don’t know what else there is to do but drive a school bus or something.”
Fischer’s only daughter, now 38, found work in Austin and later in San Antonio.
“It was the same way when I grew up,” he said. “When I got out of the military, I said, ‘What am I gonna do? Go back to cutting cedar or shearing sheep and goats?’ No. I went to state work and retired from there, so I can get a pension and all that.”
He worked for the state in San Antonio for 30 years, coming back on the weekends to help the family. When he retired, he moved back for good.
Now he shares his table at the Devil’s Backbone Tavern with all classes of people, rubbing elbows with developers and retirees. They claim to be a little more laid back than the people who haunted the tavern in its early years.
The tavern sits near the tail of the Devil’s Backbone, a narrow, winding ridge in northeastern Comal County that tears through two river basins, the Blanco and the Guadalupe. The ridge, wide enough for a two-lane ranch road and a little shoulder, for years was the vein of commerce between San Marcos and the town of Blanco.
Built in 1932 on the site of an old blacksmith’s shop, the tavern had originally been a stop at the base of a treacherous stagecoach trail.
People from Hays County, which was dry, began flooding the tavern on the edge of Comal County—the only place for miles where a person could get a beer. Johnny Jenkins, 59, remembers growing up in nearby Wimberley. He and his friends would hang out in the parking lot trying to convince patrons to buy them a few beers, and they succeeded more often than not, he said.
These days, Jenkins is welcome inside the establishment. He meets up with his friend from San Marcos, Rusty O’Bryant, the retired owner of a plumbing supply store who donated the trough in the men’s restroom.
They usually play shuffleboard, another holdover from the rough-and-tumble early days, but lately their opponents have stopped coming by. So instead, Jenkins and O’Bryant sit at a back table drinking Milwaukee’s Best.
“I’m retired, and it gets boring at home,” Jenkins said.
Currently, Jenkins and O’Bryant are mad at one of the bartenders, so they time their visits to coincide with Couve’s work schedule.
But even in the midst of their bartender boycott, they know things will not escalate to the point where pistols are drawn.
“Once in a while we get pissed off at one another and raise hell, but that doesn’t last more than a day or two,” O’Bryant said. “We’re too old to fight.”
This story was originally published Aug. 12, 2003, in The Daily Texan, the student newspaper at The University of Texas at Austin. The featured image is courtesy of Flickr user yep.photo.
10,690 responses to “Legend of the Devil’s Backbone Tavern”
plumbing can really be a hardwork specially if you are not very skillfull in doing home plumbing::
I was wondering if you ever considered changing the layout of your site? Its very well written; I love what youve got to say. But maybe you could a little more in the way of content so people could connect with it better. Youve got an awful lot of text for only having one or 2 pictures. Maybe you could space it out better?
Your storytelling prowess is nothing short of extraordinary. Reading this article felt like embarking on an adventure of its own. The vivid descriptions and engaging narrative transported me, and I eagerly await to see where your next story takes us. Thank you for sharing your experiences in such a captivating manner.
Your enthusiasm for the subject matter shines through in every word of this article. It’s infectious! Your dedication to delivering valuable insights is greatly appreciated, and I’m looking forward to more of your captivating content. Keep up the excellent work!
Your storytelling prowess is nothing short of extraordinary. Reading this article felt like embarking on an adventure of its own. The vivid descriptions and engaging narrative transported me, and I eagerly await to see where your next story takes us. Thank you for sharing your experiences in such a captivating manner.
Your dedication to sharing knowledge is unmistakable, and your writing style is captivating. Your articles are a pleasure to read, and I consistently come away feeling enriched. Thank you for being a dependable source of inspiration and information.
Commander IIRC in this movie) or any of the hundreds of other OFFICERS aboard the ship, not the cadet.
I can’t express how much I value the effort the author has put into creating this outstanding piece of content. The clarity of the writing, the depth of analysis, and the plethora of information presented are simply remarkable. Her enthusiasm for the subject is obvious, and it has certainly struck a chord with me. Thank you, author, for sharing your insights and enriching our lives with this incredible article!
What i don’t understood is actually how you’re not actually much more well-liked than you may be right now. You’re very intelligent. You realize therefore considerably relating to this subject, produced me personally consider it from so many varied angles. Its like women and men aren’t fascinated unless it?s one thing to do with Lady gaga! Your own stuffs great. Always maintain it up!
Do you mind if I quote a couple of your posts as long as I provide credit and sources back to your blog? My blog is in the very same niche as yours and my visitors would really benefit from some of the information you provide here. Please let me know if this ok with you. Regards!
Your writing style effortlessly draws me in, and I find it nearly impossible to stop reading until I’ve reached the end of your articles. Your ability to make complex subjects engaging is indeed a rare gift. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Your enthusiasm for the subject matter shines through every word of this article; it’s contagious! Your commitment to delivering valuable insights is greatly valued, and I eagerly anticipate more of your captivating content. Keep up the exceptional work!
Your blog is a true gem in the vast expanse of the online world. Your consistent delivery of high-quality content is truly commendable. Thank you for consistently going above and beyond in providing valuable insights. Keep up the fantastic work!
This article is a real game-changer! Your practical tips and well-thought-out suggestions are incredibly valuable. I can’t wait to put them into action. Thank you for not only sharing your expertise but also making it accessible and easy to implement.
Your passion and dedication to your craft shine brightly through every article. Your positive energy is contagious, and it’s clear you genuinely care about your readers’ experience. Your blog brightens my day!
This article resonated with me on a personal level. Your ability to emotionally connect with your audience is truly commendable. Your words are not only informative but also heartwarming. Thank you for sharing your insights.
I’d like to express my heartfelt appreciation for this insightful article. Your unique perspective and well-researched content bring a fresh depth to the subject matter. It’s evident that you’ve invested considerable thought into this, and your ability to convey complex ideas in such a clear and understandable way is truly commendable. Thank you for sharing your knowledge so generously and making the learning process enjoyable.
I’ve discovered a treasure trove of knowledge in your blog. Your unwavering dedication to offering trustworthy information is truly commendable. Each visit leaves me more enlightened, and I deeply appreciate your consistent reliability.
I loved as much as you’ll receive carried out right here. The sketch is tasteful, your authored material stylish. nonetheless, you command get got an shakiness over that you wish be delivering the following. unwell unquestionably come more formerly again since exactly the same nearly a lot often inside case you shield this hike.
oh well, chris rock is damn funny. i like his corny jokes and stuffs..
I’m genuinely impressed by how effortlessly you distill intricate concepts into easily digestible information. Your writing style not only imparts knowledge but also engages the reader, making the learning experience both enjoyable and memorable. Your passion for sharing your expertise is unmistakable, and for that, I am deeply appreciative.
This article resonated with me on a personal level. Your ability to emotionally connect with your audience is truly commendable. Your words are not only informative but also heartwarming. Thank you for sharing your insights.
I’m genuinely impressed by how effortlessly you distill intricate concepts into easily digestible information. Your writing style not only imparts knowledge but also engages the reader, making the learning experience both enjoyable and memorable. Your passion for sharing your expertise is unmistakable, and for that, I am deeply appreciative.
I must applaud your talent for simplifying complex topics. Your ability to convey intricate ideas in such a relatable manner is admirable. You’ve made learning enjoyable and accessible for many, and I deeply appreciate that.
Your dedication to sharing knowledge is unmistakable, and your writing style is captivating. Your articles are a pleasure to read, and I consistently come away feeling enriched. Thank you for being a dependable source of inspiration and information.
I’ve discovered a treasure trove of knowledge in your blog. Your unwavering dedication to offering trustworthy information is truly commendable. Each visit leaves me more enlightened, and I deeply appreciate your consistent reliability.
Your blog has rapidly become my trusted source of inspiration and knowledge. I genuinely appreciate the effort you invest in crafting each article. Your dedication to delivering high-quality content is apparent, and I eagerly await every new post.
??? ?????? ????????????? ????????! ??? ????????????? ???????? ?????????? ? ????? ?????? ???????????????. ? ????? ????? ?????? ? ???????????. ??????? ?????? ?? ????? ????????????? ??????!
I’ve discovered a treasure trove of knowledge in your blog. Your unwavering dedication to offering trustworthy information is truly commendable. Each visit leaves me more enlightened, and I deeply appreciate your consistent reliability.
I must applaud your talent for simplifying complex topics. Your ability to convey intricate ideas in such a relatable manner is admirable. You’ve made learning enjoyable and accessible for many, and I deeply appreciate that.
I’m genuinely impressed by how effortlessly you distill intricate concepts into easily digestible information. Your writing style not only imparts knowledge but also engages the reader, making the learning experience both enjoyable and memorable. Your passion for sharing your expertise shines through, and for that, I’m deeply grateful.
Your passion and dedication to your craft shine brightly through every article. Your positive energy is contagious, and it’s clear you genuinely care about your readers’ experience. Your blog brightens my day!
Medyumlar hakk?nda bilinmeyenler neler sizler için ara?t?rd?k ve karar verdik.
In a world where trustworthy information is more crucial than ever, your dedication to research and the provision of reliable content is truly commendable. Your commitment to accuracy and transparency shines through in every post. Thank you for being a beacon of reliability in the online realm.
Your writing style effortlessly draws me in, and I find it nearly impossible to stop reading until I’ve reached the end of your articles. Your ability to make complex subjects engaging is indeed a rare gift. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Your passion and dedication to your craft radiate through every article. Your positive energy is infectious, and it’s evident that you genuinely care about your readers’ experience. Your blog brightens my day!
Your enthusiasm for the subject matter radiates through every word of this article; it’s contagious! Your commitment to delivering valuable insights is greatly valued, and I eagerly anticipate more of your captivating content. Keep up the exceptional work!
Medyumlar hakk?nda bilinmeyenler neler sizler için ara?t?rd?k ve karar verdik.
I have read so many articles regarding the blogger lovers but this article is really a nice paragraph, keep it up.
i like wireless internet because you can surf anywhere and you can avoid those ethernet cables;
?????? ???????? ?????????? ?????????? ?? ?????? ????.
Does your site have a contact page? I’m having problems locating it but, I’d like to send you an email. I’ve got some recommendations for your blog you might be interested in hearing. Either way, great blog and I look forward to seeing it grow over time.
Güvenilir Medyumlar hakk?nda bilinmeyenler neler sizler için ara?t?rd?k ve karar verdik.
Your unique approach to addressing challenging subjects is like a breath of fresh air. Your articles stand out with their clarity and grace, making them a pure joy to read. Your blog has now become my go-to source for insightful content.
In a world where trustworthy information is more important than ever, your commitment to research and providing reliable content is truly commendable. Your dedication to accuracy and transparency is evident in every post. Thank you for being a beacon of reliability in the online world.
Your positivity and enthusiasm are undeniably contagious! This article brightened my day and left me feeling inspired. Thank you for sharing your uplifting message and spreading positivity among your readers.
Your writing style effortlessly draws me in, and I find it difficult to stop reading until I reach the end of your articles. Your ability to make complex subjects engaging is a true gift. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
??? ???????????, ??? ????? ?????????? ?????????? ? ???? ??????. ? ????????, ??? ???? ????? ????????????? ? ?????? ???? ????????? ??????? ????????? ? ?????????? ????????. ?????????? ?????????? ?? ??? ?????????!
Can I just say what a comfort to uncover a person that genuinely understands what they’re talking about over the internet. You actually understand how to bring a problem to light and make it important. More people ought to check this out and understand this side of your story. I was surprised that you’re not more popular given that you certainly have the gift.
There are certainly lots of details like that to take into consideration. That could be a great point to deliver up. I supply the thoughts above as normal inspiration but clearly there are questions like the one you bring up where an important factor will probably be working in honest good faith. I don?t know if greatest practices have emerged around things like that, however I’m sure that your job is clearly recognized as a good game. Both boys and girls feel the impact of just a second?s pleasure, for the remainder of their lives.