A Sheltered Cove

sabine river waterfall

My friend Buddy took this picture of me on the Sabine River in 2009. I hadn’t seen it in years, but I found it yesterday when going through files on my old computer. Here’s the story behind the photo—one of the weirder episodes from my first book, Running the River: Secrets of the Sabine.

About a mile from the boat ramp, we came upon a waterfall gurgling over a rocky ledge, into a sheltered green pool beside the river. The cavelike walls of the cove were painted green with moss. Sunlight reflected off the water and danced like currents of electricity through the shadows. I had never seen anything so pretty on the Sabine.

“We might have to go swimming later,” Buddy said, and I agreed.

Not far beyond the cove we came to a strange scene: an unmanned boat floating in the middle of the water. It sounded like the engine was running. When we came closer, we saw a long, white hose extending from the boat into the river. At one spot a few feet away, we noticed air steadily bubbling to the surface. Just then a man’s head bobbed up from the brown water, wearing a scuba mask, goggles, and a breathing apparatus.

mussel diver
Gathering mussels in the Sabine River

“Looking for mussels?” I asked.

The man affirmed my question by lifting his bag of shells out of the water. But my camera and questions aroused his suspicion. “Are y’all from the FBI?”

We said no, and when we boated past, the diver sank beneath the water. We eased a little farther downriver, through frequent rapids where the flow quickened and the boat scraped over rocks and gravel, and we passed the many abandoned concrete and wooden oilfield structures that I had marveled at during my earlier trip with Jacob. I watched the shoreline for signs of hogs, but my attention soon began to wander, and I started to imagine the view of the riverbanks from two hundred years ago, when the first settlers arrived.

Today, East Texas is scrub country. What land has not been paved or plowed is choked with thorn vines and brush. But at one time, the forest canopy was so thick it blocked the sunlight from the undergrowth, and the smaller plants that did manage to survive in the dark forests were cleared by occasional fires, leaving trees so large and well established that early travelers called this place the Pine Barrens.

“They say the pine trees used to be so tall in East Texas, you could ride a horse for miles, fall asleep in the saddle, and never hit a tree limb,” I said to Buddy as we drifted downriver. “There used to be huge trees here on the river, too. Just think how much prettier all this would be if we hadn’t cut everything down.”

Buddy glanced up from the trolling motor and studied the brush on the bank. “You can’t think about it that way,” he said. “It’s still pretty. East Texas is still pretty. Just be thankful you get to see it the way it is, because someday all of this will be gone, too.” He had a point, but I hoped he was wrong. Growing up, I had never given a second thought to this wild river running through my hometown. Now that I had spent some time on the Sabine, I didn’t want to lose what remained.

boat
Dragging the boat upstream.

Buddy and I never saw the hogs, so we turned back. The flow that had seemed so calm when we floated downstream was now a force we hadn’t reckoned with, and we spent most of the journey trudging through the water and fighting the current as we dragged the boat upstream. At times the water came only to my hips, sometimes up to my chest, but then I would step off a precipice and fall into a deeper channel. I learned to use my foot to feel for the firmness of the riverbed before committing my weight to a step forward. Before long, I forgot about my fear of being swept away by the river. As long as I stayed alert and moved slowly, I didn’t have to worry so much about drowning after all.

When we returned to the waterfall and the pretty little cove, we parked on some boulders at the entrance and jumped in. The water was cold and deep here and stunningly clear: I could see the bottom some eight feet below. Above us, the clearwater creek had worn the ground away to the eroded rock, cascading through a series of precipices, before tumbling into the cove. Buddy swam over to the waterfall and let it pound his back and shoulders. “It feels just like a back massage,” he said with glee. “You gotta try this.”

I did. It felt great. “Man, I could even bring a woman here,” I said.

Buddy
Buddy

This was the discovery of a lifetime, the kind of place that Buddy could enjoy with his wife and kids for years to come. We swam for a long while, then waded out of the cove and into the river. The water was much warmer here, around waist deep, brown, and muddy. Our toes sank into the silt.

When we returned to the cove a few minutes later, something had changed. “Wasn’t the waterfall a lot bigger when we first got here?” I asked. Instead of gushing over the ledge, the water had narrowed to a trickle. Then, as we watched with increasing horror, it began to grow again. Within minutes, the waterfall was surging at full strength. It was like someone had flushed an enormous toilet. Oh no, that was it! We were swimming in sewage—the discharge from the wastewater plant in Gladewater. No wonder the cove was so cool and clear. No wonder we kept smelling that faint odor of chlorine. I spit what I could out of my mouth.

We climbed out of the cove and then ascended a steep, grassy bank to see where the creek led. We came to an even bigger waterfall and then a series of smaller ones. We walked as far as we could through a leafy forest to a barbed-wire fence, then returned to the river and stood for a moment on the big gray rocks beside the beautiful cove.

“I don’t even care,” Buddy said. “It might be sewage, but they treated it first.”

We jumped back in. At one point, Buddy even swam under the waterfall, where he indulged in another back massage.

Excerpted from Running the River: Secrets of the Sabine by Wes Ferguson and Jacob Botter and published by Texas A&M University Press.


3,741 responses to “A Sheltered Cove”

  1. wonderful publish, very informative. I’m wondering why the other specialists of this sector don’t notice this. You must continue your writing. I am sure, you’ve a great readers’ base already!

  2. Do you have a spam issue on this website; I also am a blogger, and I was wondering your situation; many of us have created some nice practices and we are looking to exchange strategies with other folks, why not shoot me an email if interested.

  3. This design is steller! You most certainly know how to keep a reader entertained. Between your wit and your videos, I was almost moved to start my own blog (well, almost…HaHa!) Excellent job. I really loved what you had to say, and more than that, how you presented it. Too cool!

  4. I am not sure where you are getting your information, but good topic. I needs to spend some time learning more or understanding more. Thanks for excellent info I was looking for this information for my mission.

  5. Howdy! Do you use Twitter? I’d like to follow you if that would be okay. I’m absolutely enjoying your blog and look forward to new posts.

  6. Greetings I am so thrilled I found your blog page, I really found you
    by mistake, while I was looking on Google for something else,
    Regardless I am here now and would just like to say thanks for a fantastic post and
    a all round enjoyable blog (I also love the theme/design), I don’t have
    time to read it all at the minute but I have book-marked it and also added your RSS feeds, so when I have time I will be back to read a great deal more, Please do keep up the great work.

  7. Hey there, You’ve done an excellent job. I will definitely digg it and personally suggest to my friends. I’m confident they’ll be benefited from this web site.

  8. Excellent article. Keep writing such kind of information on your page.
    Im really impressed by your site.
    Hey there, You have performed an excellent job. I will definitely digg it and in my opinion recommend to my friends.

    I am confident they will be benefited from this site.

  9. Wow, fantastic blog layout! How long have you been blogging for? you made blogging look easy. The overall look of your website is fantastic, let alone the content!

  10. Have you ever considered about adding a little bit more than just your
    articles? I mean, what you say is important and everything.
    But just imagine if you added some great photos or videos to give
    your posts more, “pop”! Your content is excellent but with pics and clips, this website could undeniably be one of the best in its field.
    Very good blog!

  11. I have to thank you for the efforts you’ve put in writing this website. I really hope to check out the same high-grade blog posts from you later on as well. In fact, your creative writing abilities has inspired me to get my own, personal website now 😉

  12. What i do not understood is in reality how you’re now
    not really much more neatly-preferred than you
    may be right now. You are very intelligent. You realize thus significantly in relation to this subject, produced me for my
    part believe it from numerous varied angles. Its like women and
    men don’t seem to be fascinated except it is one thing to do with Woman gaga!

    Your individual stuffs outstanding. All the time
    deal with it up!

  13. With havin so much content and articles do you ever run into any issues of plagorism or copyright infringement?

    My blog has a lot of unique content I’ve either authored myself or
    outsourced but it seems a lot of it is popping it up
    all over the internet without my authorization. Do you know
    any ways to help reduce content from being stolen? I’d certainly appreciate
    it.

  14. Spot on with this write-up, I honestly believe this website needs a great deal more attention. I’ll probably be back again to
    see more, thanks for the advice!

  15. I think this is one of the most important information for me.
    And i’m glad reading your article. But want to remark on some general things, The site style is perfect, the articles is really nice :
    D. Good job, cheers

  16. I am curious to find out what blog system you have been using?
    I’m having some small security problems with my latest site and
    I would like to find something more safe. Do you have any
    recommendations?

  17. Thanks for your article. One other thing is that if you are marketing your property all on your own, one of the issues you need to be conscious of upfront is just how to deal with home inspection reviews. As a FSBO owner, the key to successfully transferring your property in addition to saving money about real estate agent revenue is expertise. The more you already know, the smoother your sales effort is going to be. One area where by this is particularly important is home inspections.

  18. Having read this I believed it was very informative. I appreciate you taking the time and energy to put this short article together. I once again find myself personally spending a significant amount of time both reading and posting comments. But so what, it was still worthwhile.

  19. Howdy! This article could not be written any better! Reading through this post reminds me of my previous roommate! He constantly kept talking about this. I am going to send this post to him. Fairly certain he’ll have a great read. Thank you for sharing!

  20. I am now not positive where you’re getting your information, but great topic. I must spend a while studying much more or working out more. Thanks for wonderful info I used to be searching for this info for my mission.

  21. I?m no longer positive the place you’re getting your information, but good topic. I needs to spend a while finding out much more or figuring out more. Thank you for great info I used to be searching for this info for my mission.

  22. Terrific paintings! That is the kind of information that are supposed to be shared around the net. Disgrace on the search engines for no longer positioning this put up higher! Come on over and visit my site . Thanks =)

  23. Greetings from California! I’m bored to death at work so
    I decided to browse your site on my iphone during lunch break.
    I love the knowledge you present here and can’t wait to take a look when I get home.
    I’m shocked at how quick your blog loaded on my cell phone ..
    I’m not even using WIFI, just 3G .. Anyways, wonderful site!

  24. Hello my loved one! I wish to say that this post is awesome, great written and come with approximately all important infos. I would like to see more posts like this .

  25. Wow! In the end I got a weblog from where I know how to truly take helpful
    information concerning my study and knowledge.

  26. I loved as much as you will receive carried out right here.

    The sketch is attractive, your authored material stylish. nonetheless, you
    command get bought an impatience over that
    you wish be delivering the following. unwell unquestionably
    come further formerly again since exactly the same nearly a lot often inside case you shield this hike.

  27. One thing I’ve noticed is the fact there are plenty of fallacies regarding the lenders intentions while talking about property foreclosure. One delusion in particular would be the fact the bank prefers to have your house. The bank wants your dollars, not your property. They want the bucks they lent you along with interest. Averting the bank will undoubtedly draw a foreclosed realization. Thanks for your post.

  28. Thanks for some other fantastic article. The place else may anyone
    get that type of information in such an ideal method of writing?
    I’ve a presentation next week, and I am on the look for
    such information.

  29. That is a really good tip especially to those fresh to the blogosphere. Short but very accurate information… Many thanks for sharing this one. A must read post!

  30. Great blog here! Also your site loads up fast! What host are you
    using? Can I get your affiliate link to your host?
    I wish my site loaded up as quickly as yours lol

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *