The Chisos Mountains practically erupt from the West Texas desert. The southernmost range in the United States, they rise from the heart of Big Bend National Park to form a natural amphitheater for some of the most breathtaking views in Texas.
On the first day of 2014, the sun was climbing beyond the Chisos’ eastern rim when I crawled from my tent in the shadows of the mountain basin. The sun’s golden rays struck the panorama of west-facing cliffs, and the fingerlike formations of volcanic rock gleamed red as the light swept across the ridge and banished the shadows.
It was the kind of view that stops you in your tracks. It distracts from the shivering cold, the need for coffee, and the fact that nature’s call is what drove you from your cozy tent in the first place. As the sun continued to climb through the cloudless blue sky, I marveled first at the awesome and immense beauty surrounding me, then at my own smallness in the face of it, and finally at my personal negligence: How was I just now seeing this place?
Well, for one thing, Big Bend is in the middle of nowhere. It is situated on the American side of a “big bend” in the Rio Grande, a stone’s throw from Mexico but a full day’s drive from the eastern half of Texas, where most of the state’s residents live. A small minority of Texans has made the pilgrimage to Big Bend, which remains one of the largest, most remote, and least-visited national parks in the United States.
Forget the crowds jostling each other for a glimpse of Old Faithful, Yosemite Falls or the Grand Canyon. Big Bend offers vastness and solitude at even peak times, which are mostly the spring break months of March and April, and October, when the scorching summer is giving way to the more temperate fall season. Although the park boasts more than 800,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert, mountain woodlands and river habitat, only 275,000 people visited in all of 2013. To put those numbers in perspective, if every visitor had shown up on the same exact day last year, each person would have had three acres to him or herself.
Travelers who are willing to brave the distance and desert are rewarded with an experience that can be found nowhere else in Texas. They can amble down shady trails through narrow canyons, including spectacular Santa Elena, where the Rio Grande chisels a narrow, 1,500-feet-deep gorge through layers of bedrock. They can trek to the highest peaks, take driving tours through weird desert badlands within view of majestic mountains, relax in natural hot springs along the Rio Grande, or cross the river and ride a horse into the rustic Mexican village of Boquillas.
And while Big Bend has a reputation for extremes, appealing to hardy backpackers and others searching for solitude in a severe environment, the park also accommodates the less adventurous among us, with 123 miles of paved roads and a recently renovated lodge that features comfortable rooms, hot showers and serene views. Getting to the park isn’t the haul it used to be, either. In 2012, the Texas Department of Transportation increased speed limits for many West Texas highways to 80 mph.
After a day of driving, consider a rest in Marathon, about an hour north of the park. The dust-blown town of 430 people owes its continued existence to the travelers heading into Big Bend, and its centerpiece is the Gage Hotel, a historic lodge outfitted in elegant Southwestern style. During my recent visit, the Gage was a little beyond our price range, so my girlfriend and I went down the street and dropped $10 on a lovely campsite behind the Marathon Motel. After setting up camp we headed back to the Gage and warmed up by the fire at the cozy White Buffalo Bar, and we split a buffalo burger under the watchful eyes of an enormous white bison whose wooly head was mounted to the brick wall.
Shirley’s Burnt Biscuit served up comfort food for breakfast. The only gas station in town was plumb out of fuel, but we had enough in the tank to get us into the park—the vehicle entrance fee is $20—and to the fuel pumps at Panther Junction near Big Bend’s northern end.
We were surrounded by desert hills rolling in all directions, studded with spiky sotol, creosote bushes and 65 varieties of cactus, including beautiful purple pads that grew in clumps along the roadway. Then the road turned, and we began a winding ascent into the Chisos Mountains. The desert gave way to the magnificent red canyons and forest of piñon pines, oaks and other trees that thrive at the higher elevation. I had been expecting endless badlands, so the lushness of the mountain woodlands came as a pleasant surprise. Because the elevation there varies so extremely, from about 1,800 feet along the Rio Grande to 7,832 feet at Emory Peak, the mountains trap the passing clouds and receive enough rainfall to support a diverse range of trees, flowers, and critters such as black bear and deer. It is also about the only place in Texas to see the Mexican jay, a pretty blue bird that is native to mountain ranges of Mexico.
We easily found a $14 campsite in the first-come, first-serve Chisos Basin campground, and although we were apprehensive about sleeping in a tent with low temperatures dropping into the mid-20s, we burrowed into two blankets and four sleeping bags and were just fine. Daytime temperatures climbed into the upper 60s, perfect for a long stroll along the Window Trail, where water from the basin funnels through a narrow gap in the mountains and spills over a cliff to the desert far, far below.
Later, as evening approached on a peaceful New Year’s Eve, the patio of the Chisos Mountains Lodge offered the best view of the sun descending through the Window, and revelers celebrated with drinks and dinner inside the lodge restaurant. The volcanic canyons gleamed red in the setting sun, and soon all was dark, the night filled with stars.
First published in Texas Farm and Home.
1,966 responses to “Exploring Big Bend”
This is a topic that’s near to my heart… Many thanks! Exactly where can I find the contact details for questions?
I really love your blog.. Very nice colors & theme. Did you make this website yourself? Please reply back as I’m looking to create my own website and would love to find out where you got this from or what the theme is called. Cheers.
You have made some good points there. I looked on the internet to learn more about the issue and found most people will go along with your views on this site.
you may have a terrific weblog here! would you wish to make some invite posts on my blog?
I really like reading through an article that can make men and women think. Also, many thanks for permitting me to comment.
Right here is the right web site for anybody who would like to find out about this topic. You realize a whole lot its almost tough to argue with you (not that I actually would want to…HaHa). You certainly put a brand new spin on a topic that has been written about for a long time. Great stuff, just excellent.
Thanks for these guidelines. One thing I also believe is that often credit cards giving a 0 interest rate often bait consumers in zero monthly interest, instant authorization and easy on the web balance transfers, nonetheless beware of the real factor that may void your 0 easy streets annual percentage rate plus throw one out into the terrible house in no time.
Spot on with this write-up, I truly assume this website wants rather more consideration. I?ll most likely be again to read rather more, thanks for that info.
Thank you, I have just been looking for info approximately this topic for a while and yours is the best I have discovered so far. But, what about the bottom line? Are you certain concerning the source?
You made some first rate points there. I regarded on the internet for the difficulty and found most individuals will associate with with your website.
Hi, I do believe this is a great web site. I stumbledupon it 😉 I am going to return yet again since i have saved as a favorite it. Money and freedom is the best way to change, may you be rich and continue to guide others.
Can I simply just say what a relief to discover someone who truly knows what they’re discussing on the web. You actually realize how to bring an issue to light and make it important. More and more people must look at this and understand this side of your story. I was surprised that you are not more popular because you surely have the gift.
Have you ever thought about creating an ebook or guest authoring on other websites? I have a blog based on the same subjects you discuss and would love to have you share some stories/information. I know my subscribers would appreciate your work. If you’re even remotely interested, feel free to send me an email.
Greetings! Very helpful advice in this particular article! It is the little changes that will make the greatest changes. Thanks for sharing!
These days of austerity and also relative anxiety about having debt, a lot of people balk resistant to the idea of utilizing a credit card to make purchase of merchandise and also pay for any occasion, preferring, instead just to rely on the actual tried and trusted means of making repayment – hard cash. However, in case you have the cash on hand to make the purchase fully, then, paradoxically, that is the best time for you to use the card for several reasons.
That is a good tip particularly to those new to the blogosphere. Short but very precise info… Many thanks for sharing this one. A must read post!
An impressive share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a colleague who had been conducting a little research on this. And he actually bought me lunch due to the fact that I discovered it for him… lol. So allow me to reword this…. Thank YOU for the meal!! But yeah, thanx for spending time to discuss this topic here on your internet site.
Spot on with this write-up, I really feel this amazing site needs a great deal more attention. I’ll probably be back again to read through more, thanks for the advice.
Hey there! I just wish to give you a big thumbs up for your great information you have got right here on this post. I am coming back to your website for more soon.
I?ve been exploring for a little for any high quality articles or blog posts in this kind of house . Exploring in Yahoo I at last stumbled upon this web site. Reading this info So i am satisfied to exhibit that I have an incredibly excellent uncanny feeling I came upon exactly what I needed. I such a lot indubitably will make certain to don?t fail to remember this web site and provides it a glance on a relentless basis.
hey there and thank you for your information ? I have definitely picked up anything new from right here. I did however expertise several technical issues using this web site, since I experienced to reload the website a lot of times previous to I could get it to load correctly. I had been wondering if your web host is OK? Not that I am complaining, but slow loading instances times will often affect your placement in google and can damage your high quality score if ads and marketing with Adwords. Well I am adding this RSS to my e-mail and can look out for a lot more of your respective intriguing content. Make sure you update this again soon..
It is appropriate time to make some plans for the long run and it’s time to be happy. I have learn this publish and if I could I wish to recommend you few fascinating issues or tips. Perhaps you could write next articles relating to this article. I want to learn more issues approximately it!
This is very interesting, You are a very skilled blogger. I have joined your rss feed and look forward to seeking more of your magnificent post. Also, I have shared your site in my social networks!
It’s appropriate time to make a few plans for the longer term and it’s time to be happy. I’ve learn this put up and if I may just I wish to recommend you few fascinating things or suggestions. Perhaps you could write next articles referring to this article. I wish to read even more issues approximately it!
Thanks for your post. One other thing is individual states in the United states of america have their unique laws that affect property owners, which makes it very difficult for the our lawmakers to come up with a whole new set of recommendations concerning foreclosed on householders. The problem is that a state possesses own laws which may work in a negative manner when it comes to foreclosure plans.
hi!,I like your writing so much! share we communicate more about your post on AOL? I require an expert on this area to solve my problem. Maybe that’s you! Looking forward to see you.
Thanks for your publiction. Another thing is that to be a photographer involves not only problem in capturing award-winning photographs but also hardships in getting the best digicam suited to your needs and most especially issues in maintaining the caliber of your camera. This really is very real and noticeable for those photography addicts that are directly into capturing a nature’s captivating scenes – the mountains, the forests, the particular wild and the seas. Going to these adventurous places definitely requires a dslr camera that can surpass the wild’s tough environments.
I think other web site proprietors should take this web site as an model, very clean and great user genial style and design, let alone the content. You are an expert in this topic!
Excellent blog here! Also your web site loads up very fast! What host are you using? Can I get your affiliate link to your host? I wish my web site loaded up as quickly as yours lol
Good blog post. What I would like to add is that pc memory has to be purchased when your computer still can’t cope with what you do along with it. One can put in two random access memory boards containing 1GB each, as an illustration, but not one of 1GB and one of 2GB. One should make sure the manufacturer’s documentation for the PC to be certain what type of ram is required.
My brother suggested I might like this web site. He was totally right. This post truly made my day. You cann’t imagine just how much time I had spent for this info! Thanks!
Good day! I know this is kinda off topic but I was wondering if you knew where I could locate a captcha plugin for my comment form? I’m using the same blog platform as yours and I’m having trouble finding one? Thanks a lot!
I liked as much as you will receive carried out proper here. The sketch is attractive, your authored subject matter stylish. nevertheless, you command get bought an edginess over that you want be turning in the following. sick unquestionably come further before once more as precisely the similar nearly very steadily within case you defend this increase.
I seriously love your blog.. Excellent colors & theme. Did you develop this web site yourself? Please reply back as I’m hoping to create my own personal site and would love to find out where you got this from or just what the theme is named. Thanks.
I was able to find good info from your content.
Hmm it appears like your blog ate my first comment (it was super long) so I guess I’ll just sum it up what I submitted and say, I’m thoroughly enjoying your blog. I too am an aspiring blog blogger but I’m still new to the whole thing. Do you have any helpful hints for first-time blog writers? I’d definitely appreciate it.
I think that a property foreclosures can have a major effect on the borrower’s life. Home foreclosures can have a 7 to a decade negative influence on a applicant’s credit report. Any borrower having applied for a mortgage or just about any loans for that matter, knows that a worse credit rating is actually, the more hard it is to acquire a decent financial loan. In addition, it may affect any borrower’s capacity to find a decent place to let or hire, if that turns into the alternative property solution. Great blog post.
I am really loving the theme/design of your weblog. Do you ever run into any browser compatibility issues? A small number of my blog readers have complained about my site not operating correctly in Explorer but looks great in Firefox. Do you have any suggestions to help fix this issue?
Just want to say your article is as amazing. The clearness for your post is just nice and that i could think you’re a professional in this subject. Fine together with your permission allow me to clutch your RSS feed to keep updated with imminent post. Thank you one million and please keep up the enjoyable work.
Wow! This could be one particular of the most beneficial blogs We have ever arrive across on this subject. Basically Great. I am also a specialist in this topic so I can understand your hard work.
Hmm is anyone else having problems with the images on this blog loading? I’m trying to figure out if its a problem on my end or if it’s the blog. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
This web page is really a walk-via for the entire info you wished about this and didn?t know who to ask. Glimpse right here, and also you?ll positively discover it.
I am really enjoying the theme/design of your site. Do you ever run into any web browser compatibility issues? A few of my blog audience have complained about my site not working correctly in Explorer but looks great in Firefox. Do you have any advice to help fix this issue?
A further issue is really that video gaming has become one of the all-time most important forms of recreation for people of any age. Kids play video games, plus adults do, too. The actual XBox 360 is just about the favorite video games systems for people who love to have a huge variety of games available to them, plus who like to relax and play live with other people all over the world. Many thanks for sharing your notions.
bookmarked!!, I really like your site.
Everyone loves it when people come together and share views. Great blog, continue the good work!
I’m not that much of a internet reader to be honest but your blogs really nice, keep it up! I’ll go ahead and bookmark your site to come back later. Cheers
Many thanks for this article. I might also like to talk about the fact that it can become hard when you are in school and starting out to establish a long credit standing. There are many individuals who are just simply trying to endure and have a protracted or beneficial credit history can occasionally be a difficult thing to have.
I have observed that costs for internet degree gurus tend to be an awesome value. Like a full Bachelors Degree in Communication in the University of Phoenix Online consists of 60 credits from $515/credit or $30,900. Also American Intercontinental University Online provides a Bachelors of Business Administration with a full education course element of 180 units and a tuition fee of $30,560. Online learning has made getting your college diploma much simpler because you may earn the degree through the comfort of your house and when you finish from work. Thanks for all other tips I’ve learned from your web site.
I believe that avoiding prepared foods is a first step for you to lose weight. They can taste excellent, but ready-made foods have got very little vitamins and minerals, making you take more simply to have enough energy to get over the day. If you’re constantly taking in these foods, converting to whole grains and other complex carbohydrates will assist you to have more vigor while consuming less. Interesting blog post.