The Chisos Mountains practically erupt from the West Texas desert. The southernmost range in the United States, they rise from the heart of Big Bend National Park to form a natural amphitheater for some of the most breathtaking views in Texas.
On the first day of 2014, the sun was climbing beyond the Chisos’ eastern rim when I crawled from my tent in the shadows of the mountain basin. The sun’s golden rays struck the panorama of west-facing cliffs, and the fingerlike formations of volcanic rock gleamed red as the light swept across the ridge and banished the shadows.
It was the kind of view that stops you in your tracks. It distracts from the shivering cold, the need for coffee, and the fact that nature’s call is what drove you from your cozy tent in the first place. As the sun continued to climb through the cloudless blue sky, I marveled first at the awesome and immense beauty surrounding me, then at my own smallness in the face of it, and finally at my personal negligence: How was I just now seeing this place?
Well, for one thing, Big Bend is in the middle of nowhere. It is situated on the American side of a “big bend” in the Rio Grande, a stone’s throw from Mexico but a full day’s drive from the eastern half of Texas, where most of the state’s residents live. A small minority of Texans has made the pilgrimage to Big Bend, which remains one of the largest, most remote, and least-visited national parks in the United States.
Forget the crowds jostling each other for a glimpse of Old Faithful, Yosemite Falls or the Grand Canyon. Big Bend offers vastness and solitude at even peak times, which are mostly the spring break months of March and April, and October, when the scorching summer is giving way to the more temperate fall season. Although the park boasts more than 800,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert, mountain woodlands and river habitat, only 275,000 people visited in all of 2013. To put those numbers in perspective, if every visitor had shown up on the same exact day last year, each person would have had three acres to him or herself.
Travelers who are willing to brave the distance and desert are rewarded with an experience that can be found nowhere else in Texas. They can amble down shady trails through narrow canyons, including spectacular Santa Elena, where the Rio Grande chisels a narrow, 1,500-feet-deep gorge through layers of bedrock. They can trek to the highest peaks, take driving tours through weird desert badlands within view of majestic mountains, relax in natural hot springs along the Rio Grande, or cross the river and ride a horse into the rustic Mexican village of Boquillas.
And while Big Bend has a reputation for extremes, appealing to hardy backpackers and others searching for solitude in a severe environment, the park also accommodates the less adventurous among us, with 123 miles of paved roads and a recently renovated lodge that features comfortable rooms, hot showers and serene views. Getting to the park isn’t the haul it used to be, either. In 2012, the Texas Department of Transportation increased speed limits for many West Texas highways to 80 mph.
After a day of driving, consider a rest in Marathon, about an hour north of the park. The dust-blown town of 430 people owes its continued existence to the travelers heading into Big Bend, and its centerpiece is the Gage Hotel, a historic lodge outfitted in elegant Southwestern style. During my recent visit, the Gage was a little beyond our price range, so my girlfriend and I went down the street and dropped $10 on a lovely campsite behind the Marathon Motel. After setting up camp we headed back to the Gage and warmed up by the fire at the cozy White Buffalo Bar, and we split a buffalo burger under the watchful eyes of an enormous white bison whose wooly head was mounted to the brick wall.
Shirley’s Burnt Biscuit served up comfort food for breakfast. The only gas station in town was plumb out of fuel, but we had enough in the tank to get us into the park—the vehicle entrance fee is $20—and to the fuel pumps at Panther Junction near Big Bend’s northern end.
We were surrounded by desert hills rolling in all directions, studded with spiky sotol, creosote bushes and 65 varieties of cactus, including beautiful purple pads that grew in clumps along the roadway. Then the road turned, and we began a winding ascent into the Chisos Mountains. The desert gave way to the magnificent red canyons and forest of piñon pines, oaks and other trees that thrive at the higher elevation. I had been expecting endless badlands, so the lushness of the mountain woodlands came as a pleasant surprise. Because the elevation there varies so extremely, from about 1,800 feet along the Rio Grande to 7,832 feet at Emory Peak, the mountains trap the passing clouds and receive enough rainfall to support a diverse range of trees, flowers, and critters such as black bear and deer. It is also about the only place in Texas to see the Mexican jay, a pretty blue bird that is native to mountain ranges of Mexico.
We easily found a $14 campsite in the first-come, first-serve Chisos Basin campground, and although we were apprehensive about sleeping in a tent with low temperatures dropping into the mid-20s, we burrowed into two blankets and four sleeping bags and were just fine. Daytime temperatures climbed into the upper 60s, perfect for a long stroll along the Window Trail, where water from the basin funnels through a narrow gap in the mountains and spills over a cliff to the desert far, far below.
Later, as evening approached on a peaceful New Year’s Eve, the patio of the Chisos Mountains Lodge offered the best view of the sun descending through the Window, and revelers celebrated with drinks and dinner inside the lodge restaurant. The volcanic canyons gleamed red in the setting sun, and soon all was dark, the night filled with stars.
First published in Texas Farm and Home.
292 responses to “Exploring Big Bend”
I really appreciate this post. I have been looking all over for this! Thank goodness I found it on Bing. You’ve made my day! Thx again
Wow! This can be one particular of the most beneficial blogs We have ever arrive across on this subject. Actually Great. I am also an expert in this topic so I can understand your hard work.
hey there and thank you for your information ? I?ve certainly picked up anything new from right here. I did however expertise some technical issues using this site, since I experienced to reload the web site many times previous to I could get it to load correctly. I had been wondering if your hosting is OK? Not that I am complaining, but slow loading instances times will often affect your placement in google and could damage your quality score if advertising and marketing with Adwords. Well I?m adding this RSS to my e-mail and could look out for much more of your respective fascinating content. Ensure that you update this again soon..
Excellent post. I used to be checking continuously this weblog and I am inspired! Extremely helpful info specifically the last part 🙂 I maintain such information much. I was looking for this certain information for a long time. Thank you and good luck.
From my investigation, shopping for electronic devices online can for sure be expensive, yet there are some tips and tricks that you can use to obtain the best deals. There are always ways to uncover discount promotions that could make one to possess the best gadgets products at the lowest prices. Great blog post.
Your house is valueble for me. Thanks!?
After examine a number of of the blog posts in your website now, and I actually like your method of blogging. I bookmarked it to my bookmark web site record and shall be checking again soon. Pls check out my site as well and let me know what you think.
I would also like to say that most individuals that find themselves without having health insurance are usually students, self-employed and people who are out of work. More than half with the uninsured are under the age of Thirty five. They do not think they are requiring health insurance simply because they’re young and healthy. Its income is often spent on real estate, food, plus entertainment. A lot of people that do represent the working class either complete or part-time are not presented insurance by means of their work so they head out without due to rising tariff of health insurance in the United States. Thanks for the concepts you talk about through your blog.
Have you ever thought about including a little bit more than just your articles? I mean, what you say is valuable and everything. However think about if you added some great images or videos to give your posts more, “pop”! Your content is excellent but with pics and clips, this blog could undeniably be one of the greatest in its field. Very good blog!
Hi! I’ve been reading your site for a long time now and finally got the bravery to go ahead and give you a shout out from Dallas Tx! Just wanted to tell you keep up the great work!
Thanks a bunch for sharing this with all of us you actually know what you are talking about! Bookmarked. Please also visit my website =). We could have a link exchange contract between us!
One other issue is when you are in a predicament where you don’t have a co-signer then you may really want to try to exhaust all of your federal funding options. You’ll find many funds and other free college funding that will supply you with money to support with university expenses. Thanks a lot for the post.
Wow! This can be one particular of the most beneficial blogs We’ve ever arrive across on this subject. Basically Excellent. I am also a specialist in this topic so I can understand your effort.
Great post. I used to be checking constantly this blog and I am impressed! Extremely helpful info specifically the closing phase 🙂 I maintain such info a lot. I was looking for this particular information for a long time. Thank you and good luck.
An attention-grabbing discussion is value comment. I think that you need to write more on this matter, it won’t be a taboo subject but generally persons are not enough to talk on such topics. To the next. Cheers
I do not even know how I finished up right here, but I thought this submit used to be great. I don’t realize who you might be however definitely you are going to a well-known blogger if you are not already 😉 Cheers!
hello there and thanks to your information ? I?ve certainly picked up something new from proper here. I did on the other hand experience some technical issues the usage of this website, as I skilled to reload the web site a lot of instances prior to I may get it to load properly. I had been pondering if your hosting is OK? Now not that I am complaining, however slow loading circumstances occasions will very frequently have an effect on your placement in google and can harm your quality rating if ads and ***********|advertising|advertising|advertising and *********** with Adwords. Anyway I?m adding this RSS to my e-mail and can glance out for much extra of your respective fascinating content. Ensure that you replace this once more very soon..
Its like you read my mind! You appear to grasp a lot approximately this, such as you wrote the guide in it or something. I believe that you can do with some p.c. to pressure the message home a bit, however other than that, this is excellent blog. An excellent read. I will definitely be back.
Excellent beat ! I would like to apprentice while you amend your website, how can i subscribe for a blog web site? The account helped me a acceptable deal. I had been a little bit acquainted of this your broadcast provided bright clear idea
Helpful information. Fortunate me I discovered your site unintentionally, and I am stunned why this accident did not happened earlier! I bookmarked it.
One important issue is that when you are searching for a student loan you may find that you’ll want a co-signer. There are many conditions where this is true because you might discover that you do not use a past credit history so the lender will require that you’ve someone cosign the credit for you. Good post.
Hi my loved one! I want to say that this post is amazing, great written and come with approximately all important infos. I?d like to peer extra posts like this .
glmwyuhhu qtyik wdvgpfz iidd uwwpitfgxmpplry
I really appreciate this post. I have been looking all over for this! Thank goodness I found it on Bing. You’ve made my day! Thank you again
you are in reality a excellent webmaster. The site loading velocity is amazing. It seems that you’re doing any unique trick. Moreover, The contents are masterpiece. you have performed a excellent job on this subject!
It is indeed my belief that mesothelioma is definitely the most dangerous cancer. It has unusual traits. The more I look at it a lot more I am persuaded it does not react like a true solid flesh cancer. When mesothelioma is often a rogue virus-like infection, therefore there is the possibility of developing a vaccine and also offering vaccination to asbestos subjected people who are at high risk connected with developing long run asbestos related malignancies. Thanks for sharing your ideas for this important health issue.
Thanks for the useful information on credit repair on this particular blog. Things i would tell people should be to give up a mentality they can buy right now and shell out later. As a society most people tend to make this happen for many things. This includes vacations, furniture, along with items we’d like. However, you need to separate the wants from all the needs. When you are working to boost your credit score you have to make some sacrifices. For example you are able to shop online to save money or you can visit second hand suppliers instead of high priced department stores intended for clothing.
Wow, amazing blog layout! How long have you been blogging for? you make blogging look easy. The overall look of your web site is great, as well as the content!
665035 198550my grandmother is always into herbal stuffs and she always say that ayurvedic medicines are the best stuff 55190
Thanks for the interesting things you have discovered in your article. One thing I would like to touch upon is that FSBO connections are built after some time. By presenting yourself to the owners the first saturday their FSBO is usually announced, prior to masses get started calling on Friday, you produce a good link. By giving them instruments, educational materials, free accounts, and forms, you become a good ally. By taking a personal affinity for them as well as their scenario, you produce a solid link that, on many occasions, pays off if the owners opt with an adviser they know and also trust – preferably you.
Spot on with this write-up, I honestly believe that this amazing site needs a great deal more attention. I’ll probably be back again to read more, thanks for the advice!
Oh my goodness! an incredible article dude. Thank you However I’m experiencing difficulty with ur rss . Don?t know why Unable to subscribe to it. Is there anyone getting an identical rss drawback? Anybody who knows kindly respond. Thnkx
The next time I read a blog, I hope that it doesn’t disappoint me as much as this particular one. I mean, I know it was my choice to read through, nonetheless I truly thought you would have something interesting to talk about. All I hear is a bunch of complaining about something that you could fix if you weren’t too busy looking for attention.
Usually I don’t read post on blogs, but I would like to say that this write-up very forced me to try and do so! Your writing style has been surprised me. Thanks, very nice post.
446086 721776Attractive portion of content. I merely stumbled upon your weblog and in accession capital to assert that I get in fact loved account your weblog posts. Anyway I is going to be subscribing to your augment and even I success you get admission to constantly quickly. 452221
You have made some good points there. I checked on the web for more info about the issue and found most people will go along with your views on this website.
Thanks for your valuable post. In recent times, I have come to be able to understand that the actual symptoms of mesothelioma are caused by the build up associated fluid regarding the lining of the lung and the breasts cavity. The sickness may start within the chest location and multiply to other areas of the body. Other symptoms of pleural mesothelioma include weight reduction, severe respiration trouble, fever, difficulty eating, and irritation of the face and neck areas. It needs to be noted that some people living with the disease tend not to experience every serious signs or symptoms at all.
I would love to add when you do not surely have an insurance policy or perhaps you do not remain in any group insurance, you will well take advantage of seeking aid from a health broker. Self-employed or those that have medical conditions ordinarily seek the help of an health insurance brokerage. Thanks for your text.
Greetings! I’ve been following your site for some time now and finally got the bravery to go ahead and give you a shout out from Kingwood Texas! Just wanted to tell you keep up the excellent work!
I discovered more new stuff on this weight loss issue. Just one issue is a good nutrition is highly vital when dieting. A massive reduction in junk food, sugary food, fried foods, sweet foods, red meat, and bright flour products could be necessary. Possessing wastes parasitic organisms, and contaminants may prevent ambitions for shedding fat. While selected drugs briefly solve the situation, the unpleasant side effects are not worth it, and in addition they never present more than a short-lived solution. It is a known idea that 95 of dietary fads fail. Many thanks sharing your ideas on this website.
I like it when individuals come together and share ideas. Great site, stick with it!
There’s certainly a lot to know about this issue. I love all the points you have made.
Wonderful blog! I found it while surfing around on Yahoo News. Do you have any tips on how to get listed in Yahoo News? I’ve been trying for a while but I never seem to get there! Thank you
I’m really inspired with your writing abilities as smartly as with the layout on your blog. Is this a paid subject or did you customize it yourself? Anyway keep up the nice quality writing, it?s rare to look a nice weblog like this one these days..
Thanks for giving your ideas here. The other matter is that every time a problem comes up with a laptop motherboard, people should not consider the risk of repairing it themselves for if it is not done correctly it can lead to irreparable damage to the whole laptop. It is almost always safe to approach a dealer of a laptop with the repair of the motherboard. They have got technicians who’ve an expertise in dealing with laptop computer motherboard problems and can get the right analysis and undertake repairs.
There are some attention-grabbing closing dates in this article however I don?t know if I see all of them center to heart. There is some validity however I will take maintain opinion until I look into it further. Good article , thanks and we want extra! Added to FeedBurner as effectively
Thank you for some other great post. The place else may anybody get that type of info in such a perfect means of writing? I’ve a presentation next week, and I’m at the search for such information.
A lot of whatever you point out happens to be astonishingly accurate and that makes me wonder the reason why I hadn’t looked at this in this light before. This piece really did switch the light on for me personally as far as this subject matter goes. However at this time there is one particular factor I am not too comfortable with so while I try to reconcile that with the main theme of the point, allow me see what all the rest of the visitors have to point out.Nicely done.
Great work! This is the type of information that should be shared around the web. Shame on Google for not positioning this post higher! Come on over and visit my site . Thanks =)
Great weblog here! Also your site loads up very fast! What web host are you the usage of? Can I am getting your associate hyperlink on your host? I desire my website loaded up as fast as yours lol