This is a story I wrote for The Daily Texan in like 2003. I still try to swing by the ’Bone a couple of times a year.
If you happen to run your finger over a bullet hole in the wall of the Devil’s Backbone Tavern, don’t worry—it’s just a remnant of rowdier days.
Most of the old-timers who shot up the walls and ceiling of the small rock structure are dead and gone, and the ones still around say they are now too old to bother. Instead, they sit back and drink their Milwaukee’s Best Light, the cheapest beer in the house, and tell stories that mingle legend with history.
For instance, the place is haunted. Always has been.
“Oh, there are ghosts, I guaran-goddamn-tee you,” said Robert Kelly, a regular who said he sometimes sees shadowy figures on a steep nearby ridge called the Devil’s Backbone, for which the tavern is named.
Brushes with the paranormal are to be expected in a place like this, where the face of the Devil himself is manifest in a rock mortared into the stonework above the fireplace at the back wall.
In fact, many claim the Backbone—the ridge and the tavern—is the most-haunted spot in the state.Amanda Joan Couve, a bartender who studies sociology at Southwest Texas State University, has had her share of run-ins with the ghost. He tends to stick to the south end of the place, rearranging furniture, turning off lights and causing all-around mayhem, said Couve. On summer nights when the air is still as death, the door that leads to the adjoining dance hall inexplicably slams to and fro. Other nights, before they went ahead and tied it to the wall, the box fan fell to the floor whenever Couve walked nearby.
“It was weird,” she said. “It was like the ghost was mad at me or something.”
Couve thinks the tavern is haunted by a man shot dead as he walked into the bar years ago, when the place was rowdier. But the older folk, who remember those lawless days, tend to agree it’s a Native American killed in some ancient and forgotten Indian battle. Still others say their spooked friends are full of it.
“My daddy, my grandpa and my great-grandpa lived around here, and we never saw anything,” said Floyd Fischer, who spends most afternoons at the table by the window, swapping stories and sipping on a cold beer.
At 62, he’s frequented the tavern for decades, as his father did before him. He grew up along the Backbone, trapping ringtails that fetched $50 at a time when a full day’s labor could bring in as little as a dollar a day.
Today, he lives in a little ranching community on the other side of the ridge named for his ancestors, the Fischers, German immigrants who settled the area in the 1850s. He maintains a spread of land passed down through the generations, and his cousins still populate the area. In short, Fischer is one of the old-timers.
Fischer distinguishes between several different types of folks at the Devil’s Backbone Tavern. You’ve got your old-timers, the people who grew up around the ridge; college kids driving in from San Marcos; bikers; and the newcomers.
First, there are the guys with the Harleys, who in recent years have begun frequenting the place on nights and weekends: “We’re overrun by bikers, but they’re all good people now,” he said. “When I grew up in this country, they rode the old Indian bikes. Now those were bad people.”
Back in those days, if you saw a bike parked in front of the tavern, you didn’t stop. But now the bikers are mostly doctors and lawyers, a fine sort, he said.
Then there are the newcomers.
They’re the folks who made their money at big-city jobs and then retired to places like Wimberley – where you don’t ask people where they’re from, but what part of Houston they’re from – or they live out on Canyon Lake and commute to Austin and San Antonio.
Pretty much anybody who has moved into the area within the past two or three decades is considered a newcomer, it seems. The winding road to the tavern from Wimberley is dotted by billboards advertising Hill Country land for sale, and people continue to take up the offers in droves.
Development is driving up the cost of land in the area, and Fischer said ignorance on the part of the newcomers has transformed the landscape of the region and has even led to an invasion of coyotes.
“In the old days, my daddy and relatives wiped the coyotes out of this country, or you couldn’t raise sheep and goats and make a living,” he said. “They were gone the whole time I grew up in this country, until I retired. Things got populated, and nobody would cut the cedar or do anything, so, hell, they had all the cover they needed.”
While the coyotes move in, the old-timers’ children continue to move off. Fischer said most have to leave to find a living wage.
“There’s no jobs around here unless you work in the bar or at a convenience store,” he said. “I don’t know what else there is to do but drive a school bus or something.”
Fischer’s only daughter, now 38, found work in Austin and later in San Antonio.
“It was the same way when I grew up,” he said. “When I got out of the military, I said, ‘What am I gonna do? Go back to cutting cedar or shearing sheep and goats?’ No. I went to state work and retired from there, so I can get a pension and all that.”
He worked for the state in San Antonio for 30 years, coming back on the weekends to help the family. When he retired, he moved back for good.
Now he shares his table at the Devil’s Backbone Tavern with all classes of people, rubbing elbows with developers and retirees. They claim to be a little more laid back than the people who haunted the tavern in its early years.
The tavern sits near the tail of the Devil’s Backbone, a narrow, winding ridge in northeastern Comal County that tears through two river basins, the Blanco and the Guadalupe. The ridge, wide enough for a two-lane ranch road and a little shoulder, for years was the vein of commerce between San Marcos and the town of Blanco.
Built in 1932 on the site of an old blacksmith’s shop, the tavern had originally been a stop at the base of a treacherous stagecoach trail.
People from Hays County, which was dry, began flooding the tavern on the edge of Comal County—the only place for miles where a person could get a beer. Johnny Jenkins, 59, remembers growing up in nearby Wimberley. He and his friends would hang out in the parking lot trying to convince patrons to buy them a few beers, and they succeeded more often than not, he said.
These days, Jenkins is welcome inside the establishment. He meets up with his friend from San Marcos, Rusty O’Bryant, the retired owner of a plumbing supply store who donated the trough in the men’s restroom.
They usually play shuffleboard, another holdover from the rough-and-tumble early days, but lately their opponents have stopped coming by. So instead, Jenkins and O’Bryant sit at a back table drinking Milwaukee’s Best.
“I’m retired, and it gets boring at home,” Jenkins said.
Currently, Jenkins and O’Bryant are mad at one of the bartenders, so they time their visits to coincide with Couve’s work schedule.
But even in the midst of their bartender boycott, they know things will not escalate to the point where pistols are drawn.
“Once in a while we get pissed off at one another and raise hell, but that doesn’t last more than a day or two,” O’Bryant said. “We’re too old to fight.”
This story was originally published Aug. 12, 2003, in The Daily Texan, the student newspaper at The University of Texas at Austin. The featured image is courtesy of Flickr user yep.photo.
3,966 responses to “Legend of the Devil’s Backbone Tavern”
Thank you for sharing superb informations. Your web site is very cool. I’m impressed by the details that you?ve on this blog. It reveals how nicely you perceive this subject. Bookmarked this website page, will come back for extra articles. You, my friend, ROCK! I found just the info I already searched everywhere and simply couldn’t come across. What a great site.
Hi, It has come to our attention that you are using our client’s photographs on your site without a valid licence. We have already posted out all supporting documents to the address of your office. Please confirm once you have received them. In the meantime, we would like to invite you to settle this dispute by making the below payment of £500. Visual Rights Group Ltd, KBC Bank London, IBAN: GB39 KRED 1654 8703, 1135 11, Account Number: 03113511, Sort Code: 16-54-87 Once you have made the payment, please email us with your payment reference number. Please note that a failure to settle at this stage will only accrue greater costs once the matter is referred to court. I thank you for your cooperation and look forward to your reply. Yours sincerely, Visual Rights Group Ltd, Company No. 11747843, Polhill Business Centre, London Road, Polhill, TN14 7AA, Registered Address: 42-44 Clarendon Road, Watford WD17 1JJ
Hi, i think that i saw you visited my website thus i came to ?return the favor?.I’m attempting to find things to enhance my web site!I suppose its ok to use a few of your ideas!!
The the next time I just read a blog, I am hoping it doesnt disappoint me up to this place. What i’m saying is, I know it was my choice to read, but When i thought youd have something fascinating to express. All I hear is often a bunch of whining about something you could fix in the event you werent too busy looking for attention.
Well said. I never thought I would agree with this opinion, but I’m starting to view things from a different view. I have to research more on this as it seems very interesting. One thing I don’t understand though is how everything is related together.
?????? ???????????? ????? ? ????????????? ??????, ?? ??????? ????????????.
????? ???????????? ??????? ??????? ? ???????? ? ????????? ?????, ??? erleichtert das Verständnis.
I’m not that much of a online reader to be honest but your blogs really nice, keep it up! I’ll go ahead and bookmark your website to come back later. Many thanks
I gotta bookmark this web-site it seems invaluable extremely helpful
I have learned result-oriented things by means of your site. One other thing I’d really like to say is that often newer pc os’s are inclined to allow extra memory to be utilized, but they also demand more memory space simply to perform. If an individual’s computer is not able to handle a lot more memory and also the newest program requires that storage increase, it might be the time to buy a new Laptop or computer. Thanks
Author has many informative facts, I’ve learned a lot. I’m confused as to why I didn’t add it as a bookmark before because it’s surely a site I want in my daily visit list. Thanks again, keep up the unique work
Hello, i think that i saw you visited my site so i came to “return the favor”.I am attempting to find things to enhance my site!I suppose its ok to use a few of your ideas!!
? ????? ?? ???????? ??????? ????????????, ?????????????? ? ???? ??????. ????? ?? ?????? ??????????? ?????, ?? ? ?????? ?????? ?? ??????? ? ???????????. ??? ????????????? ?????? ? ????????????? ????????!
? ????? ?? ???????? ???? ????????????? ?????? ?? ??? ???????? ???????????? ? ????? ?????????. ?? ????? ?????????? ??????? ????????? ? ??????????? ?? ? ????????? ?????. ??? ????????????? ?????? ?????? ??? ????, ??? ???????????? ???? ?????.
All I can point out is, I am not sure what to really say! Except obviously, for the superb tips that happen to be shared within this blog. I can think of a thousand fun methods to read the reports on this site. I’m sure I will eventually take a step employing your tips on those things I could not have been able to deal with alone. You’re so careful to let me be one of those to benefit from your valuable information. Please recognize how a great deal I appreciate it.
Greetings! I know this is kind of off topic but I was wondering which blog platform are you using for this website? I’m getting fed up of WordPress because I’ve had issues with hackers and I’m looking at options for another platform. I would be fantastic if you could point me in the direction of a good platform.
When I initially left a comment I appear to have clicked the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and now each time a comment is added I recieve four emails with the same comment. There has to be a means you can remove me from that service? Cheers.
When I originally commented I clicked the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and already every time a comment is added I get four emails with the same comment. Is there however you may eliminate me from that service? Thanks!
Oh my goodness! Impressive article dude! Thank you so much, However I am experiencing problems with your RSS. I don’t know why I cannot join it. Is there anybody having similar RSS problems? Anyone that knows the solution will you kindly respond? Thanx!!
This is a good tip especially to those fresh to the blogosphere. Brief but very precise info… Thanks for sharing this one. A must read post.
I real delighted to find this site on bing, just what I was looking for : D also bookmarked .
In these days of austerity and relative stress about getting debt, some people balk contrary to the idea of using a credit card in order to make purchase of merchandise and also pay for any occasion, preferring, instead just to rely on the tried and also trusted means of making settlement – hard cash. However, if you possess the cash available to make the purchase fully, then, paradoxically, that is the best time to be able to use the cards for several reasons.
This is the perfect website for anybody who hopes to find out about this topic. You understand a whole lot its almost hard to argue with you (not that I personally will need to…HaHa). You definitely put a fresh spin on a subject that’s been discussed for ages. Excellent stuff, just wonderful.
Excellent article! We will be linking to this great content on our website. Keep up the good writing.
?????? ??????? ??? ???????? ????? ?????? ????????????? ? ????????, ??????? ???????????????.
The movie attempts to generate sympathy for Ferrell’s character while simultaneously deriving all of its humor from his various bathroom misadventures, a mix that left this viewer cold.
Howdy sir, you have a really nice blog layout ,
You should be a part of a contest for one of the best blogs on the web. I most certainly will recommend this web site!
Can I recently say exactly what a relief to seek out one who actually knows what theyre discussing on the net. You definitely realize how to bring a worry to light and work out it important. Workout . ought to see this and fully grasp this side of your story. I cant believe youre no more well-known since you also definitely develop the gift.
You can also put a chatbox on your blog for more interactivity among readers.”‘.’*
This website was… how do you say it? Relevant!! Finally I’ve found something that helped me. Thank you.
This is the right blog for anybody who wants to discover this topic. You realize a whole lot its nearly hard to argue along with you (not too I personally would want…HaHa). You actually put a different spin over a topic thats been revealed for years. Wonderful stuff, just fantastic!
I’ve been exploring for a little for any high quality articles or blog posts on this kind of area . Exploring in Yahoo I at last stumbled upon this website. Reading this info So i’m happy to convey that I’ve a very good uncanny feeling I discovered just what I needed. I most certainly will make sure to don’t forget this website and give it a look regularly.
Hello! I simply would wish to make a huge thumbs up for the fantastic info you have here with this post. We are coming back to your website for further soon.
I am extremely impressed with your writing skills and also with the layout on your blog. Is this a paid theme or did you modify it yourself? Anyway keep up the nice quality writing, it?s rare to see a nice blog like this one nowadays..
May I simply just say what a relief to discover an individual who truly understands what they’re discussing on the net. You certainly understand how to bring an issue to light and make it important. A lot more people have to look at this and understand this side of your story. I was surprised you’re not more popular because you certainly have the gift.
One thing is that often one of the most common incentives for applying your credit cards is a cash-back or maybe rebate provision. Generally, you’ll get 1-5 back for various expenses. Depending on the credit cards, you may get 1 back again on most purchases, and 5 back again on expenditures made in convenience stores, gasoline stations, grocery stores along with ‘member merchants’.
I have realized that of all different types of insurance, medical insurance is the most questionable because of the turmoil between the insurance coverage company’s obligation to remain profitable and the customer’s need to have insurance cover. Insurance companies’ income on health and fitness plans are low, hence some providers struggle to generate income. Thanks for the thoughts you write about through this website.
I’ve noticed that credit repair activity really needs to be conducted with techniques. If not, you may find yourself causing harm to your standing. In order to succeed in fixing your credit history you have to see to it that from this moment in time you pay your entire monthly dues promptly prior to their slated date. It is really significant since by never accomplishing that area, all other activities that you will take to improve your credit position will not be effective. Thanks for giving your ideas.
Its like you read my mind! You appear to know so much about this, like you wrote the book in it or something. I think that you could do with a few pics to drive the message home a little bit, but instead of that, this is magnificent blog. A great read. I will definitely be back.
?????? ???????????? ????? ? ????????????? ??????, ?? ??????? ????????????.
Saved as a favorite, I really like your blog!
Oh my goodness! Awesome article dude! Thanks, However I am encountering problems with your RSS. I don’t know why I can’t subscribe to it. Is there anyone else getting identical RSS problems? Anyone that knows the answer can you kindly respond? Thanks!
You are so cool! I don’t think I’ve truly read through something like that before. So nice to discover someone with some original thoughts on this subject matter. Seriously.. many thanks for starting this up. This site is something that is required on the web, someone with a bit of originality.
?????? ?????????? ???????? ??????????? ?????????????? ???????????? ???? ?????? ?? ?????? ?????????????? ??????????.
One more thing to say is that an online business administration diploma is designed for people to be able to efficiently proceed to bachelor’s degree education. The Ninety credit education meets the lower bachelor college degree requirements so when you earn the associate of arts in BA online, you’ll have access to the most recent technologies in such a field. Some reasons why students need to get their associate degree in business is because they’re interested in this area and want to obtain the general instruction necessary ahead of jumping into a bachelor education program. Thanks for the tips you provide as part of your blog.
It is in reality a great and useful piece of info. I? happy that you simply shared this useful info with us. Please keep us up to date like this. Thanks for sharing.
you are really a just right webmaster. The site loading speed is incredible. It kind of feels that you are doing any unique trick. Furthermore, The contents are masterpiece. you’ve done a magnificent process on this subject!
The following time I read a weblog, I hope that it doesnt disappoint me as a lot as this one. I mean, I know it was my option to learn, however I really thought youd have something fascinating to say. All I hear is a bunch of whining about something that you could repair for those who werent too busy on the lookout for attention.
Hi there this is kinda of off topic but I was wondering if blogs use WYSIWYG editors or if you have to manually code with HTML. I’m starting a blog soon but have no coding knowledge so I wanted to get guidance from someone with experience. Any help would be greatly appreciated!